Castellina in Chianti to Siena
Woke up early because or free camp was paid up until 8am. Drove to Radda in Chianti and parked Ruby so that we could take a walk around town. We heard that the wine to buy from this area is Chianti Classico. With wine shops everywhere we found what we were looking for and strolled in and out of the fresh veg stores buying local produce.
The road took us to Sienna where we stayed in Colleverde Siena. The site had a very welcoming pool... and so we chilled. Aarh! It can't be all relaxation and no work so we decided to attempt the hills and cycle into town. Siena is known for there horse race Il Palio, around the city square, Il Campo. This is held on 2 July and 16 August. In preparation for the race, they had some festival activities on the go.
A distant drumming sounded between the narrow, cobbled streets. We looked for it but the dense cityscape would not allow. Stumbling across the Il Campo with an ice-cream in our hands, we decided to sit and watch the passing people. Little children dominated the area, running up and down. So much energy after there afternoon sleep. TIP: Most shops/businesses except restaurants close between 13h00 and 16h00. No-one knows what they do during this time – I assume they sleep through the scorching afternoons. People sat along the edges at Trattoria's or Osteria's (trans. Restaurants). Everything so serene. You could pass much time here.
The drumming started again and on a walk we met up with what we concluded to be 400 people. First of all the drummers, then flag throwers (for lack of exact description) and a band – all in their traditional medieval garb. Then, the men of the area singing, then some more drummers, flag throwers, and band members then singing women, men, children and teenagers. It was enthralling! So much noise in unity! Everyone had the area scarf on, young girls waved at the boys on the outskirts and a true reflection of Italy was felt yet again.
We ate dinner at a little restaurant. Prices were not bad but TIP: they do charge cover charges at some restaurants and wine tasting places. They charged us 2 Euro per person. When we received the bill it noted “coperto” (trans. covert charge) which I thought was perhaps the serving of bread they placed on our table without us asking. On some shop facades it says “no covert charge/service fee”. Having said this, the pizza's were great. I had one with artichoke, ham, mushroom and olives. Artichoke seems to be a regularly eaten veg here. Nick had an anchovies and capers on his. Mine was better!
As we left the restaurant the next group of differently medieval dressed contenders for the horse race dominated the streets. Again, hundreds of people. It was truly the highlight of the evening for both of us.
It turns out that there are 17 contrade (trans. Town districts) that compete against each other in the horse races. If the rider falls, the horse can continue competing without him. The race lasts around 3 minutes around the Il Campo. It is apparently a very high energy and nerve wrecking thing to watch.
We grabbed our bikes and took to the hills. As some know – my hill cycling skills are not too good – but I surprised myself. Conquering them for myself. Nick and I enjoyed a rewarding beer at the pub, showered and crashed.
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