30 June
Orbello - Rome

Rome... we drove, we arrived, we conquered. And did like the Romans do and went to the local campsite bath, I mean, pool. And we sat. We heard that the info centre where we needed to get our bus passes was closed, so we sat some more. Then, after a few swims, some more lazying, we headed off to the info centre at opening time. A fantastic site with everything you need. The info centre lady was very, very helpful and gave us handy tips to save money. We like her.

We ended up buying a 3 day pass which includes a hop on hop off bus, all public transport and a full visit to the Vatican – including an audio guide tour for 50 Euro each, SCORE! This was at about 38 Euro discount than what you would have paid on your own accord. TIP: ticket name “Vatican & Rome 3 day Pass”. The lovely lady is booking our visit to Villa Borghese for reserved entry. Then, Colloseum is our baby, wake up early and get a ticket from the box office. So YAY! Having fun in the sun. We're off to have dinner on our discount offer rate. We just can't figure what to have supper, so that is the easiest conclusion. What a junk life, hey?

29 July
Montalcino-Saturinia-Orbello

Up and about – it was cozzie day today. Saturnia hot water pools were awaiting us. There are 2 types, one where you can spend 28 Euro's for a full day or the one the locals use across the road. It's free, with free parking and totally natural.

When you turn the corner, you do not expect a natural waterfall cascading down into perfect rock pools with tiny soft, round lime stone pebbles. There are beautiful Italian women with their petite figures (and their 3 children running around after her)bathing in the pools. It's like the Garden of Eden, by water. You need to be there to grasp the sight.

The water is the perfect temperature. Only thing is you smell like sulphur when you get out.

We had to get going as the beach in Orbello, close to the Monte Argentario island, was calling for us. Along the roads there were billions of sunflowers. All facing and worshipping the sun. I have never seen so many.

But first, a stop at Pitigliano.

This was an old, primarily Jewish settlement which fell to ruin after the Jews left due to the WWII. The city was almost left totally abandoned and became dilapidated. It was given a cash injection in 1995 to recoup. It is not yet a tourist town and is definitely one of the best hill top towns we have visited. An absolute surprise as we almost skipped it.

Lining the coastline of Orbello there were campsites, one after the next. TIP: As we have found some of the sites quite expensive we decided to do some shopping around. I would walk in (without Nick) and ask cost for van and 2 people per night, then say – let me just speak to my husband quickly, then move to the next one. The one site was 42 Euro's, the other 34 Euro's then, the one we stayed at 24 Euro's.

Camping Village Hawaii was cheap but had very basic facilities, it was a 2 star. The whole camp was Italian. It would not surprise me if we were the only foreigners there. An Italian man came by our Ruby. Without saying anything he had an intensive thorough look at her. He looked at the back – walked to the front. Then finally asked something in Italian whilst peering over us. We figured he was asking - “what kind of van is this?” It took a while but he understood that she is a post van and he had a good giggle. We whispered to Ruby to not take any notice. She had no idea what we were talking about anyway.

Bikes came off the back and we cycled a short distance to the beach. By the way, the more expensive sites had access to the beach, ours didn't. Who cares when the beach is only 2.5 km's down the road. We sat on the brown sand with all the other sun lovers. Then took a dip in the Ligurian Sea.

All this activity left us knackered. I'll spell it for you, just in case... B.E.D!

Sienna – Cortona - Montalcino

28 July

Sienna – Cortona - Montalcino

Ruby has proved she too can do hills, including the Alps. This task sometimes needs a little encouragement though – especially when there are these crazy Italian drivers behind you. Even if there are painted solid lines they are ready to overtake you. (We've decided that as they have no lines on a lot of the roads, the roads fund decided to just leave them off and save money because even if the lines are visible – no one obeys to the rules anyway! Cutting corners is a natural pass time.) Anyway, back to Ruby... she managed to get half way up the incredibly steep hills of Cortona. We decided to walk the rest and give her a break.

Cortona is where the filmed “Under the Tuscan Sun”. It is very touristy. You almost feel that some of the American cast or crew were left behind with their accent permeating through the streets. Never the less, they did not make the movie here because it was an ugly place, it is beautiful. A wonderful place to wander through the streets, take photo's from high viewpoints and enjoy a heavenly gelati decorated with bits of tinsel and all sorts.

Stopped and had lunch along the road with our new favourite, dipped bread in olive oil and balsamic. Some cyclists went by in the burning heat up the hill and still managed a kind “bon appetito”.

Montalcino was minutes away.

It is very well known for its wine, Rossi di Montalcino. At 28 Euro's a bottle we decided to leave it and enjoy our normal favourites. The views were amazing with the entire city built on the cliffs. It is a medieval town which is more of retirement village. We couldn't believe the old people would want to live here – as we could barely walk these steep hillscapes ourselves.

Upon arrival at the free camp – we came across a weird, strange, precarious looking dude in an old 19 voetsek Mazda. He was washing himself under the tap violently. And I swear, I sore some dark liquid trickling down his forearms. He wiped the inside of the car down next. Then picked up a call arguing with someone and recklessly drove away. Immediately I decided to put on my Inspector Gadget hat and take a snoop. Had he killed someone? Or was it Colonel Mustard with a spade in the car park.

Cautiously, with tissue in hands, as not to disrupt the evidence, I opened the bin. There it was - a very strange set of rubber gloves – just left there. Detective Nick then promptly told me that rubber gloves are a very handy tool when removing unhygienic portaloo's. Then, I asked, what was the liquid running down his arm? It could of only been one thing – blood.

It seems towns like these offer free camps quite readily. We found one up on yet another hill. Every city or town in the country is on a hill. We parked Ruby there for 5 Euro's for 24 hours. These camper service parks usually offer fresh water – but not much else. Once settled we went to the fort in town, took a walk around in the cooler evening air and then marched up the slope back to Ruby.

Once we returned – we were in great dismay. Our suspect was back at the crime scene. He was hunched over his steering wheel, totally stationery. Was he dead? Detective Nick went to fill our dish bucket with water (and check if he was alive). The tap was located alongside the suspect (or potential victims) vehicle. Then – all of a sudden... He heard Nick approaching and the suspect jumped up – with a really goofy smile - he said “Bonjourno”! And continued to fix his radio. Nick said the dark trickle on his arms was obviously from servicing his car. If you don't have your own garage, a camper service park is ideal. As we learnt with Ruby.

We enjoyed a body wash down from our dishes bucket. TIP: that was it. When you have no bath, make one. Then bed...

Castellina in Chianti to Siena

27 July

Castellina in Chianti to Siena

Woke up early because or free camp was paid up until 8am. Drove to Radda in Chianti and parked Ruby so that we could take a walk around town. We heard that the wine to buy from this area is Chianti Classico. With wine shops everywhere we found what we were looking for and strolled in and out of the fresh veg stores buying local produce.

The road took us to Sienna where we stayed in Colleverde Siena. The site had a very welcoming pool... and so we chilled. Aarh! It can't be all relaxation and no work so we decided to attempt the hills and cycle into town. Siena is known for there horse race Il Palio, around the city square, Il Campo. This is held on 2 July and 16 August. In preparation for the race, they had some festival activities on the go.

A distant drumming sounded between the narrow, cobbled streets. We looked for it but the dense cityscape would not allow. Stumbling across the Il Campo with an ice-cream in our hands, we decided to sit and watch the passing people. Little children dominated the area, running up and down. So much energy after there afternoon sleep. TIP: Most shops/businesses except restaurants close between 13h00 and 16h00. No-one knows what they do during this time – I assume they sleep through the scorching afternoons. People sat along the edges at Trattoria's or Osteria's (trans. Restaurants). Everything so serene. You could pass much time here.

The drumming started again and on a walk we met up with what we concluded to be 400 people. First of all the drummers, then flag throwers (for lack of exact description) and a band – all in their traditional medieval garb. Then, the men of the area singing, then some more drummers, flag throwers, and band members then singing women, men, children and teenagers. It was enthralling! So much noise in unity! Everyone had the area scarf on, young girls waved at the boys on the outskirts and a true reflection of Italy was felt yet again.

We ate dinner at a little restaurant. Prices were not bad but TIP: they do charge cover charges at some restaurants and wine tasting places. They charged us 2 Euro per person. When we received the bill it noted “coperto” (trans. covert charge) which I thought was perhaps the serving of bread they placed on our table without us asking. On some shop facades it says “no covert charge/service fee”. Having said this, the pizza's were great. I had one with artichoke, ham, mushroom and olives. Artichoke seems to be a regularly eaten veg here. Nick had an anchovies and capers on his. Mine was better!

As we left the restaurant the next group of differently medieval dressed contenders for the horse race dominated the streets. Again, hundreds of people. It was truly the highlight of the evening for both of us.

It turns out that there are 17 contrade (trans. Town districts) that compete against each other in the horse races. If the rider falls, the horse can continue competing without him. The race lasts around 3 minutes around the Il Campo. It is apparently a very high energy and nerve wrecking thing to watch.

We grabbed our bikes and took to the hills. As some know – my hill cycling skills are not too good – but I surprised myself. Conquering them for myself. Nick and I enjoyed a rewarding beer at the pub, showered and crashed.

Florence – Castellina Chianti

26 July
Florence – Castellina Chianti

Parked our little Ruby in 24 hour free parking on the Piazza de Michelangelo square very early. Went straight into to town directly to the Accademia to try get in and see the Great “David”. Arrived at around 9am and were in by 9.30. There was a queue already but it really wasn't too stressful. Hung out in the gallery for about 2 hours. David is stunning – you need to see him for yourself. It is said that he became the symbol of Florence as he has oversized hands and the sling is the only thing he is wearing. The hands showed the symbol of strength but the sling showed a simple tool could achieve great things. This, was all overheard by a tour guide close by. TIP: stick close to tour groups. Yes, become a professional eaves dropper.

Headed off to the Uffizi and were bewowed by all the art. An entire room devoted to Botticelli, then there was Michaelangeo, Leonardo da Vinci and so many more of the Greats. Nick says we saw all of the Ninja Turtle except for Splinter, BeeBop and RockSteady! It was really a fulfilling day. TIP: when reserving tickets for the Uffizi, please note that you have to go collect your tickets at another collection point – not the entry point for reserved tickets. Also note that there is an additional charge to the 10 Euro ticket of 4 Euro per ticket for reserving. Needless to stay – although you want to avoid the queue, hence your reservation – you need to queue to get your reserved ticket. It is faster than waiting in the non-reserveds.

Ruby awaited us (after yet another gelati) at 15h30 and we headed for Chianti. Found an awesome freecamp in Castellina in Chianti for only 5 Euro's. TIP: Always remember to keep loads of small change as the Italians don't seem to be big on giving it and most freecamps do not take notes. No showers or loo's here but has access to water. On a steep hill, so put your walking boots on. After din's we went into town for a coffee. Stunning little Medieval streets. The night lights create even a more beautiful setting against the old walls and buildings.


We returned back to camp where we saw fireflies twinkling like Christmas lights over the grasses in front of us. So many of them – it was spectacular. Night night and firefly dreams.

Florence

25 July

Florence

Did you know there are actually 3 David statues in Florence? I never. One copy in bronze is in the Piazza Michaelangelo, the other copy in a square called Piazza della Signoria, in marble, and then the real one in the Accademia Gallery, obviously marble. Carved by Michaelangelo when he was only 29 years old.

Went into town, got orientated. Realised there was no hope to get into the Uffizi Gallery nor the Accademia Gallery. The queues were long to say the least.

Managed to see Dante's (“The Divine Comedy” author) house. Walked and walked. The shops have such ornate and new but antique looking jewellery. As a non-shopper – even I could get totally lost. A ritual Gelati saw us on our way home.

Nick managed to book tickets for the Uffizi the next day – but not for Accademia (they were fully booked).

Bologna - Florence

24 July
Bologna - Florence

After doing a few circles in the van we finally found a parking in town to explore Bologne. We visited the Morandi Museum. This chap has been named in more than just Italy, his birthplace. Everywhere we have gone it seems there is a little Morandi Mania. He was an artist who kept his work to himself his whole life. Once he passed away, his sister displayed all his work for the world to see.

As an art teacher he had numerous still lives. Some that were pretty much the same as the others. The only thing that us art pro's could figure out was that perhaps the moral of the story is - have confidence in yourself. One can come and go, without anyone knowing. Why not allow others join in your joy? - even if you're not that good.

Anyway, other than that – that is all we got out of it.

Having asked for 2 x bolognaise's at a little restaurant we were informed that there were 3 to choose from – the lasagne, the pomodora something or the other pasta and the tagliatelli Bolognaise. To be honest – I only thought there was one type of Bolognaise, spaghetti bolognaise. It all makes sense now though. Nick had the tagliatelli and wished he had my lasagne. At 4.50 Euro's each, it was really a very tasty meal. TIP: Be aware that often if the meal is cheap, the drink is where they earn their money. A small glass of coke/sprite (not even a bottle/can) was 3.50 Euro's.

We also visited some towers which have a really interesting history. There were only 2 towers remaining but at one stage there were around 80 towers throughout the city of Bologne. This was a sign of status of wealthy families that had them erected. The taller the tower – the more rich and well-known you were. It also served as a strong hold and look out point and potentially shoot arrows at enemies when necessary. As Nick says (like a true architect would) it was the birth of the high rise living.

Arrived in Florence at 15h00. Coming over a hill – you see the most incredible cityscape. I will never forget it! No photo would ever match it. Absolutely fantastic. This would be one of those unforgettable stops. So romantic the biggest jock would even subside.

Having taken the flyer from the Venice site, we pulled into their sister site “Camping Village Michaelangelo”. Literally next door to the Piazza Michaelangelo. It is on top of the hill – with the same view as you saw on the drive into Florence. Magical. A little pricey at 41 Euro per night (no pool) but site is perfectly located. Although the cost, you save on bus fares as you are almost in the city centre. The campsite is actually a heritage site – that's how wonderful.

As it was the day of celebration for St John the Baptist, the Patron Saint of Florence, we were in for surprise. A massive fireworks display from the Michaelangelo Piazza! It took about 45 minutes of constant blasts. Just loads and loads of fireworks. And we were situated right next to them! St John the Baptist was not the first Patron Saint of Florence, it was first, Mars. Not to sure of the story behind that – but interesting never the less.

We settled in – ate some parmesan cheese soaked in Balsamic with breads (as Nick had read to do somewhere).