Amalfi Coast

7 July
Amalfi Coast

On booking out – we thanked Xenia and Irene profusely – not only for their recommendation of tour operator but for their kindness.

Xenia had mentioned not to travel the Amalfi Coast in a car, certainly not a van. Not sure why we ended up doing it – but we did. The tom tom said there was a campsite – but it turned out to be a hotel. The concierge type guy said “no campsites in this area at all”. Initially I thought – he might want to get us into his hotel (no chance). We soon realised there was really no site. There is also no way I was to attempt the hills and mountains by bicycle. There was traffic in narrow streets like none other. Nick said “it takes a huge amount of concentration, you have to use your brown eye too”. Death defying corners. Italian drivers of bus, truck, car and scooter. The goodlooking Nick learnt quickly – when in doubt – hoot! That's what they do. You never sure if you're in trouble or if they just want to overtake you! So we motored (as promptly as Ruby can go) past Positano (which is beautiful) to Amalfi.


Amalfi welcomed us with a car park. Something not too regularly seen in these areas. At 5 Euro's for 3 hours of parking – we went and trambled through the streets and along the boulevard. We have both decided that we will come back one day. Arrive in Naples (God forbid) by plane and rent a scooter. Stay at hotels and eat at restaurants. Otherwise do a cruise. These are the ways to do this coastline. Something I do not want to miss.


Mix of driving and heat tired us. We punched in for the closest campsite on the GPS. It was only a few miles away from the lovely Villaggio Campeggio Blue Green. It was a fatal mistake at the idea that if the new site, iPini, had a pool this would be the stop. It did. A walk straight to the pool in desperation. There were kids. In swimming caps. A coach. Swimming lanes. An older chap doing butterfly. Yes, swimming training. Then to make it worse a little boy on a kicker board climbed out in need of a wee. The coach directed him towards the outdoor shower. We have learned that the outdoor shower with foot basin is there for pre wash before and after swims. This is part of the swimming rules. Wash feet and body before entering public pool. The little boy pulled down his speedo and from him protruded a yellow trickle. In the basin. He then, promptly jumped back in the pool. Kick. Kick. Kick. To top it off, his dad was on the side actually looking proud!?

We went to bed without a swim. TIP: All round – miss this site.

Piano Di Sorrento

6 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Xenia had mentioned that we could get some info on things that we could do in the area. She is incredibly passionate about her region and country. The typical warmth you are told of when people return from trips to Italy. Strangely, we had not discovered these sort yet and so when we met Xenia it was very touching.

My Granny had gone to the Isle of Capri years ago. I had figured that we were pretty close to the Island. Nick and I have both written in our dream books (a book with things we want, want to see and do, etc – and tick off once done) to see the Blue Grotto and potentially swim in it. We had originally heard about the Blue Grotto from very special friends of ours, Dave and Zelda Moore. They had visited it – but in Santorini.

A visit to reception and a chat with Xenia's very helpful daughter, Irene, allowed us to get a great deal on an island tour. Now, you'll have to forgive me. I am usually the keeper of all brochures and flyers. This flyer, however, I have misplaced. So I can't tell you the name. For 34 Euro's per person with a full trip and general guide from Masse Lubrense, with transfers from the meeting point and return and 5 hours to wander Capri on your own it was really worthwhile. Not only this, but our lovely ladies from reception insisted that Xenia will drive us to the meeting point (free of charge).

We left the site at 7.45 with Xenia. She explained that the site was her family's since 1870. Owned by her Grandmothers Grandfather. Everyone there is her family. She explained how she loves her land and her guests. Every word that leaves this lady's mouth is heaven sent. Xenia is one of the worlds little blessings.

The shuttle arrived and we all crammed in.

Arriving at Masse Lubrense we were escorted onto a cruiser. We headed off into the ocean. Nick and I walked Capri. Fortunately, decided to take the, TIP: funicular, to the top and strolled the town.

As both of us are bad shoppers (Nick is better than I) we found a path to the beach on the opposite side of the island. Bearing in mind that we walked enough stairs and mountains this holiday and this walk was only down (not up) it was a gruesome walk. Very pretty nonetheless. Very steep. Plenty stairs. And then there was the reward at the bottom – the ocean.

We attempted to find a route to the beach. In Italy, everywhere matching umbrellas and sun loungers line the beaches. We soon walked, by accident, into one and were informed a swift 18 Euro's per person to be paid for the day. The gentleman at the counter saw our backs shortly. There are small patches of public beaches though. Everything a person needs. Sea, pebbles and sun. Luke warm water. Arrh. What a life!


All Nick could think of was snorkel. He bought one at the local and off he went. Again, the trash and litter problem in Italy is severe. Nick came back saying he saw a good few fish but plenty other paraphernalia. Fishing rods, trash, plates and he even found me a brand new hairband. After a few hours relaxing in the sun, taking a dip, then sunning ourselves, then some floating about we decided to head back to the centre. If the walk down was strenuous – you can only image how up went.

The island is a mountain basically, so wherever you stand you get a great panorama. The town is filled with expensive boutiques, lavished ladies in gorgeous clothing, then plenty a tourist, little restaurants and gelateria's (yes, answers your question, another one) and is very character filled.

Our crew was back at 15h45 (on the nod) – we found a place on the front of the boat. The water had become a little more choppy than the morning. It didn't bother us as we were hoping we could get to swim in the Grotto Azzura.



When we arrived there were many other tour operators waiting in turn for their passengers to get their row boat. Row boats only hold 4 passengers and the rower. It costs 11 Euro per person to go into the Grotto. This is separate to your tour cost. We watched in awe at how these boatmen ask the passengers to duck (lay totally flat) and pull the boat and themselves through the tiniest gap in the wall. Nick and I were the second group to go from our cruise. The boatman preceded to the opening of the cave about 3 foot high and grabbed hold of a chain that is connected to the inside of the cave. This is because the opening of the cave is too small to row through. With one yank and lying down at the same time, we were in the cave.

Nick compared it to being born again. You find yourself in this large opening with this shining blue light. Something you have never seen before. The boatmen started to sing in age old tradition. His voice bouncing from wall to wall. Other boatmen joined in. Nick found a silent moment and asked if we could swim. The man answered “something extra for me?” - basically asking for a tip. Without hesitation Nick jumped in and I followed. Then, the male passenger saw what we had done and joined us. Leaving only his fiance and the boatman behind.

Everytime you touched the water – it would illuminate in electric blues. The feeling of being immersed in it was life changing. Something dreams were made of. It is at this time that I must tell you that I have a really weird fear of swimming in the sea and rivers – especially in the ocean. Never mind the fact that there was no sand underneath me. Just a great depth. The water demon thoughts did not come over me. It was a spiritual and fulfilling experience. TIP: If you are close to the Isle of Capri – join this excursion. It is a must do in life. So far, the highlight of our holiday.

As new boats entered – it seemed that the boatman was told off by his colleague and we had to hop back into the boat. Swimming is apparently not allowed. When returning to the boat Nick grabbed his wallet. The boatman was almost on his way – so Nick stretched out and handed him a tip that equalled the Grotto ticket costs. No money would have ever been enough for the experience.

Image from google
The trip continued. On a high we visited the green grotto, the white grotto, passed the beach we swam in and kissed under the Tunnel of Love. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Piano Di Sorrento

5 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Nice late start. Slept – though the sun peaked into the van. Hopped on the 12 o'clock beach shuttle and returned at 4pm.


The beach had black sand – strange. Every inch filled with a towel. Otherwise you could join the cloned umbrellas and sunbeds. We found a quite spot. Until a group of 15 year old boys arrived. As 15 year olds do – they caused havoc. All day. It was fun though. Pretty much what you expect from a beach holiday. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. You get the picture...

For those that know me, I am as pale as white paper. These days I boast a freckled tan. Not too proud actually. It has happened without knowing. I'm usually dead against too much suntanning. It is very difficult in this weather to deny it. And it must be said – I have thoroughly enjoyed it. Nicks not doing too bad himself. He is pretty much an Italian himself!

After lazing at the campsite it was time for yet another sunset. What more could we ask for?

Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

4 July
Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

Early rise and strolled to Pompeii. Very much looking forward to a day of exploring.

TIP: When we went for a quick walk to the site yesterday we were informed by a market man selling his wares that we must by a guide book to Pompeii. He said that there is no information at all available once you're up at the entrance. Having arrived at the entrance there were booths for audio guides, licensed tour guides, a free map and booklet you get with your ticket. Do not be fooled.

We decided on an audio guide at 10 Euros for 2 people. The alternative was to join the group – at 10 Euro's per person with a registered tour guide for a 2 hour walk.

Pompeii was a thriving Roman City. It suffered a huge earthquake and a few years after that, Mt Vesuvius erupted burying the city with volcanic ash.



It was discovered in the 1800's and only excavated years later. People were buried alive. The city was left very much intact. It gave a great overview from the “lupo” (trans. whore)

houses to laundromats, where using urine was part of cleaning the laundry. We walked it in 3 hours and it was plenty. Roman scholars might want to take longer. TIP: Again ladies, no heels or wedgies - you will battle or look insanely stupid.




Mt Vesuvius was about an hours drive away. Up a winding road you find that you enter straight into a parking lot. Here – a man asks you for 5 Euro parking fee. TIP: Park just before the entrance (where there are a handful of other cars or buses) and skip the charge. They also charge you to walk up the mount (at 6.50 Euro's p. person).

The volcano is Europe's only active volcano and is considered the worlds most dangerous as there are some 6000 people living at the foot of the volcano. There are literally houses and restaurants jotted all the way to the top. At the entrance of the very steep walk – men offer you walking sticks – in hope to have a tip in return when you give them back. Unless you are really unfit, have a disability or are aged you do not need one of these. Good shoes are key. Again – TIP: No high heels or wedgies. It must be said that in both Pompeii and Vesuvius women had attempted this. It genuinely is not worth it. If you break your leg or twist your ankle it will take a while for any medical help to reach you.

It is quite amazing to think you are standing on an active volcano.

You almost expect that steam should be smouldering at the top. Although on this day the heat caused haziness – there must be quite a view on cooler days. The crater is entirely closed with vegetation and earth. The volcanic ash allows perfect nutrients for the soil and the entire area surrounding the mount and all of the land below with beautiful greenery. Unfortunately, in this area (anywhere close to Naples) there is terrible litter. Even in the Mt Vesuvius National Park. It is incredibly disappointing to see dumps all along the sides of the roads.

After a lot of exercise we decided to find a beach. We drove towards Positano – punched in for a campsite on the GPS. There were very few available. It was decided that we will use the one that looked on the tip of the coastline. We arrived at Villaggio Campeggio BlueGreen campsite to find the warmest and most lovely Italian lady, Xenia. She said she will do her best to give us a site with a view. It is very difficult not to, especially when the site is on the edge of a cliff with at least 100m drop to the ocean. We settled in for the night – enjoying the surroundings.

As the site did not have a pool (the views make up for it and they have a shuttle for 1 Euro return to the beach), Nick and I filled our little dish bak (trans. bucket) and had a mini splash. Then retired on our picnic blanky with both pairs of feet in the cold water and read our books.

At one stage we had to leap up with glass of wine in hand to sit at the tip of the site with the view of the ocean and the sun setting behind it. Magic.

Rome - Pompeii

3 July
Roma - Pompeii

We had news that our lovely sister, Sarah, had given birth to a beautiful baby boy, Joseph. So pleased by this news our morning was filled with happiness. Chatting to family and sharing the joys was the highlight of our morning.

We decided not to go into town but move on toward Pompeii. A chap we had met in Rome recommended the Spartikus Campsite. We spent most of the afternoon in the pool cooling us from the drive.

It has a superb location across the road from the Pompeii Ruins. Our site was right next to the reception though. One thing you will come to notice, is that in the Naples region they rent rooms by the hour. And being next to reception – we learnt this here. All night, cars came in and out, giggling girls on the back of motorbikes and chatter. Very interesting for what seemed like a family resort. It was decided that the guy who recommended the site must have been placed deeper in the site – further away from the chalets.

Rome

2 July
Roma

Launched ourselves out of bed for yet another day of exploring. As we were only half alive on the day before Hop On Hop Off bus experience – we hopped on again. A few stops to the St Johns Basilica. This is the Popes church outside the Vatican. Our ticket allowed for another free audio guide and we took a stroll through. On the sides of the Basilica there are small Chapels. These are named after special people or families they were made for. Amazingly enough, we heard that each Chapel is privately owned in present times. Again, Bernini features with a glowing golden shrine. It is said to be the oldest church in the world. It was also the first place where Christianity was deemed higher than monarchy.

This was done by Emperor Augustus Caesar in about 300 AD. The site of this church was given by the Emperor. It used to be the house of the Pope until The Vatican and St. Peters was established. In later years they built a Baptistry. This was also one of the first of its kind. Usually baptisms were held outside. It is definitely a lovely site to visit.

Speaking English around here is not too much of a problem. There is a huge American community. They work at most of these tourist sites and tend to be very knowledgeable and helpful. There is even a specific church they attend within Rome.

After the Basilica we went to the Spanish Steps – and obviously walked down them.

Known for the teenagers flirting grounds of past -Nick failed to flirt with me – however was confronted by an Indian man that insisted on giving me a rose. A fatal NO! scared him off!

At the bottom, we visited the Trevi Fountains.

This is the fountain that was immortalised by Anita Eckberg, in La Dolce Vita. Here we threw coins over our backs to ensure a return trip to Rome. This area gives you the real feeling of Roma. Filled with romanticism and passion.

A long trek to the Villa Borghese began. Through this massive park with many a welcomed juice stand (not so welcomed when the soda's are 4 Euro a pop) you find the Villa. It is an art museum said to have a better range of art than the Vatican. Well, we were impressed. Sculptures and painting by Bernini (David, Rape of Persephone), Raphael (Christ Being Taken Down from the Cross), Botticelli, Perugino, Caravaggio and much more. A wide range of mosaic floors and frescoed walls surrounded these.

After this, we visited the Colloseum.



It was unfortunately closed at this time though this morning we had decided that we were not too concerned about going in. Never the less, spectacular and amazing.

We went home and met new neighbours. Some Swiss chaps had pulled in long side our site. They were getting on their way for a night on the town. Great guys! Ended up having them for tea or coffee when they arrived back from their jolling (trans. Partying) in the morning.

Rome, Vatican City

1 July
Rome, Vatican City

Arrival at the Vatican City – the smallest sovereign state in the world since late 1920's! With a population of – it even has it's own printed newspaper within the city walls. Walking toward the awaiting queue after collecting our reserved tickets, we were instructed by the Swiss Guard to join the queue. Hang on, I thought we were supposed to just get in? These people had obviously bought tickets too. Then, all of a sudden a tour operator dude, with nothing to do with us at all, ushered us back to the front of the groups queue. With not one group in sight he put us in the front of the line! It must have been either my or Nicks (come to think of it) dashing good looks or our colgate smile! Regardless, we were very grateful not to stand at the end of the shongalolo (millipede). Having said that, the one woman was totally irate with this celebrity entrance arrangement and could not stop muttering in her worst English that this was totally unacceptable. What can you do? Not everyone cracks VIP treatment!

There was an audio guide included on our ticket (as were all the other visits on tickets) but we heard you could upgrade to a tour guide for information on Christianity, art and architecture (opposed to only Christianity) for 15 Euro's each. As we had bought this Roma Christiana ticket, we were given 5 Euro p.person off! Score! Well, worth it! The most eloquent Itailan man. His mouth rounded every word. His passion for this city so strong that when he spoke, you hung on to every syllable.

The history behind these buildings and the assets between their walls is astonishing. One of them, Michaelangelo's Pieta.

Something I have wanted to see all my life. The story goes that he, Michaelangelo, was only about 24 years old when he sculptured this work of art not yet reaching his fame. It was placed in the Basilica and there were a set of critics who said that there were discrepancies. Things like, Mary was so large in size in comparison to her dead son and that Mary looked too young. He was so upset by these remarks that he broke into the Basilica and chisled his signature into her chest – out of pride for his first major work. It was also the only thing he ever signed as in those days one did not sign work. Michaelangelo also said that the reason for Mary's size was she was Jesus' mother and she was always without sin, so she would never age. Good answers, I thought.


In the Basilica you find tombs of past Popes. The most interesting was Pope John the XXIII. He died 40 years ago, then the new Pope had ordered to open his tomb. When they opened the body was perfectly intact. No decomposing or change to the body at all!

This is said to be a sure sign of sainthood and his body is now placed in a glass tomb for all to see. And Pope John the XXIII truly does look perfect in body. Such an incredible story!

Here, they have also found the exact place of St. Peters death, a piece of Jesus' wooden cross and the spear that killed him. Bernini's golden shrine in bronze is so enormous you can only wonder how he managed to create something that size in those years. Michaelangelo's dome is so high itself, it can fit the Statue of Liberty in it and then some. The gold work right through the building is something to marvel over. There is also a type of marble, the most expensive and rare in the world. It is called red porphyry and is more expensive than diamonds as it cannot be found any more. The Vatican owns 80% of this porphyry in the whole world.

In St. Peters Square there is a massive obelisk. It was transported from Egypt in lentils on boats and is more than 2000 years old. It also marks the place where St. Peter was crucified. Years later, they had to move the obelisk. The Pope demanded silence for the duration. If you broke the silence you would be condemned to death. There was a sailor that noticed that the rope was breaking and shouted out “Water on the ropes”! Instead of being condemned to death, he was rewarded by the Pope and given Vatican citizenship. To this day, about 400 years later, his family still decorates the Basilica before mass with flowers.

This is a visit for Catholics and non, for agnostic or atheist, for art lover or hater (with potential conversion), architect or quantity surveyor. It is for everyone. The sense of human history here is so strong that there is something to interest everyone.

We moved on to see the Vatican Museum which houses the Sistine Chapel. We skipped the queue rightfully – thanks to our ticket. It must have been a seriously uncomfortable wait in the sun. TIP: Always try and book tickets prior (unless you want a sunburn, dehydration and sore feet before you even enter).

Again we saw most of the Ninja Turtles! Best of all was the work within the Sistine Chapel. The Last Judgement was especially beautiful. The Creation of Man is dead centre ceiling but to me, almost hidden. I suppose after seeing it in textbooks and around – I expected it to be this one huge vivid image. None the less – spectacular. The Chapel itself is not what I expected – but in truth – one big canvas and celebration of art. Michaelangelo had done partial of the upper walls and ceiling when he was around30 years old. He protested in doing the work initially as he thought himself a sculptor, not a painter. He then went on to paint The Last Judgement at 60 years old. You can see the slight difference in colour with more confidence when he was older. Michalangelo must have been a remarkable man. His knowledge of all aspects of Christianity, antiquity and Dante's “The Divine Comedy” were incorporated in his work.

You will, however, find that the million other tourists gathered in this sacred place are taking photographs – with and without flash. There are many signs, many Swiss Guards and voice-overs expressing the absolute “no photo” policies in various languages. Yet, they carried on and on. Unfortunately, this damages the frescoes and these numb nuts are too selfish and careless to obey. Quite frustrating.

We visited the many rooms with the Renaissance era in focus, the Egyptians and other relics. So much art and history to see you are truly bound to be super nashed by the end of it. And we were...

Our Roma Christiana Hop On Hop Off bus stop was right outside the Vatican. Our feet stung with the days walking. We literally hopped on and did not hop off until we did a full circle of Roma. In our tiredness we saw Bernini's bridge, the Colloseum and more whilst listening to our audio guides. Once it ended we headed home by tube then bus and had an early night.