Pontchateau

31 July – 2 August
Pontchateau

The next site we wanted to visit was next to a French chateau – still owned by a family with at least a 30 character surname – really French. First stop though – Noirmoutiers little fish shop with loads of options. So we bought more oysters and mussels... drool. Then took a typically French drive through vineyards and sunflowers to a town called Sainte-Reine de Bretagne.

It was everything we hoped for for our little inland excursion. So much so that we are still here. There is an indoor outdoor pool, tennis courts, lake with free paddle boats, little otters and loads of birdlife, the old chateau and barn buildings modernised into facilities (used for weddings etc). And so much more. We have found a decent sized site on the lake, have had a few cycle rides, reading up a storm (with new books from the library swop at reception), eating loads of fresh croissants and then braai's to compensate. Even used the potjie for a mussel pot on the day of arrival (mouthwatering – can't talk about it right now – might eat the computer out of desperation). We have also invited a German doctor and his wife (George & Sylvie) round for a potjie tomorrow night. We'll let you know how that goes.

The beach is only a few k's away – so that's another excursion for another day. As always loving this life... can't believe we have 10 days left!

Our Neighbor!

Noirmoutier d Ile

28 July – 30 July
Noirmoutier d Ile
Arriving at Passage du Gois – it happened to be perfect timing. The water had subsided from the road which is usually totally submersed in sea water. Every day the tide goes out and hundreds of people travel to the little island. There are also the additional hundreds that leave their cars on the side of the road – or even some on the wet sand itself – to indulge in oysters, mussels and clam collecting.

It is amazing to see the tide go out and so many creatures being raked up by seafood lovers. We were in hope of finding a spot at Vendetta Camping (part of the Indigo camping group). Although the site has 600+ sites it is high season and this was where we wanted to stay. There are other sites, but this is on the beach and highly recommended.

As Nick returned to the car from Reception – I waited in suspense... We managed to get the last site, literally. With electrics for the max of 3 days. We would honestly have stayed for more if possible. Probably the best site this holiday. Not that I can remember them all – there has just been too many. A momentous thing happened - our attached tent went up for the first time. Just as well as it does get very windy in the afternoons. There is a fantastic little town centre an easy walk (or illegal bike ride away) on a jetty passage. Fresh food from the sea to collect or plenty from the fisheries in town. And cheap. We ate seafood like crazy. Oysters for 12 – something like 3 Euros 80 cents. A kilo of mussels just over 4 Euros. Otherwise you could always collect with the rest of the people raking them up at lowtide.


What an experience. What a campsite. Clean. Even had soap and toilet paper in the loo's – a rare pair. We had actually booked here once before – and cancelled as we were too lazy to move from Chateaulin on a previous trip (also awesome, also Britanny). This is a holiday place of note. A little opportunity to swim in the sea, whilst the rest of the day the tide is out. There are also sailing schools along a still coastline. Cycling routes if you look carefully. Shopping! And more.

If I had to type up a report of every day we were there, I am sure we would make you jealous. No need for gloating... but to end it off, every day was a good day.

Cognac

27 July
Cognac

A must do! In fact – we are going to do it again sometime. Such a stunning little town totally enveloping its heritage. Loads of things to do. Little cycle routes, kids play areas, parks – natural and recreational, tastings of ... cognac, cobbled streets and fields of sunflowers and vineyards. A serious chill session.

Everything is perfect. We booked into a campsite called Cognac de Camping. They said we could not book for more than one night and we were gutted. It happened to be there is a huge jazz fest going on in town called Blues Passion, Cognac. The site is just great and is right along the riverside. We took our bikes into town, past the parks and wobbled through some cobbly streets to the town. Saw the great Hennesey building (probably the most stunning “brewing factory” ever) and trundled along the river path. Found ourselves what ever Saffa wants, some braai meat, and retired to the comfort of a camp fire.


In the background I heard some music – decided to stop ours playing from the laptop. Said to Nick that it must be live. This nuskierige apie (trans. inquisitive monkey) hopped on the bike to check. There they were – a group of Jazz dudes – mouth organs and all having a bit of a jam session. All the campers came round. Various people joined in. After we filled our braai bellies to the max we joined the masses for a few sessions.

Who would have thought Cognac to be so huge in Jazz! Super awesome. Will do it again anytime.

Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

26 July
Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

Having not done any major towns or cities recently we looked forward to seeing Bordeaux. Rightfully so! We drove into town following the parking signs for “tourist cars”. It lead to a leafy parking spot right on the river and we decided to explore the city from there on our bike.


The city is so well structured and organised, this being the result of the last major pouring moning into the infrastructure so much so that he was accused of squandering money. Nevertheless it is great, cycle lanes sepertaing you from the trams and cars. It was great. The inner city in mostly pedestrianised which made for some wonderful walking about. It is a University town with a very large international presence that was felt when browzing the busy markets.

After a few hours we were tired and we had one to many fench sweetcakes filled with Nutella that we decided to head back to Rub y. We hitched the bicycles back on and decided to head on out back to the beach.

We found a small camsite in Lege Cap Ferrat. It was a very nice two star site fr only 20 Euros. Cheap compared to some. It was not long before a English gentalman came to talk to us making comments about Ruby. His name was Peter Smith and his wife was Jilly. They were retired schoolteachers and had been coming to the site for the past 9 years. He had owned several LDV vans (like Ruby) and we had lots to talk about. He gave us some good maintenance tips. Lovely people.

After we were talked out and hungry we went our separate ways to make dinner. Amy tried to test out her newly acquired French skills with the toddler neighbour and his Mom. Pointing and laughing worked with the toddler..... the Mom thought we were strange.

Mimizan – Bordeaux

25 July
Mimizan – Bordeaux

Arrived in Bordeaux to probably the only campsite in the area. Bordeaux de Lac (trans. lac – Lake) sounded promising with hopeful views of the lake and 8km outside the centre. No luck there unfortunately – there is no lake. There are a few man made “natural” pools.

As we do (somehow) we landed our site in front of a couple of homeboys with a mini cd player pumping out the tunes. Some French pop and some really shameful late 80's & 90's style music. There was another crew of homies chilling outside the laundry a few metres away. After a while the group made friends with each other. Nick, feeling left out, promptly placed his cap loosely sideways and tipped up, not tight, to try and fit in.

Instead we made friends with a couple from Aus and there 3 little ones. We have heard a few crazy stories of misfortunes from people along the way. Fortunately we have not had any. Blessed.

With hope of the site shop having a few bits – we were horribly disappointed leaving us with very little to create supper with. Eating becomes really important when you have nothing else to do. So we made a pasta & sauce and went to bed.

Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

24 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

Needless to say we did not feel like another 4 hour wait for a bit of spark for the Ruby. We slept in and were ready to leave at noon. When I was paying I chatted to another Frenchman who waited with us the previous day who was in the front of the electric line. I noticed he was well into the book he started the previous day and he told me he had been waiting since 6:00 and he was strong and will prevail. I smiled, paid and left. Next time I will book in advance.

We did not drive to far and we ended up in Mimizan just up the coast. Stumbled upon a lake with a Flower trail up on its banks. We decided to hope out the van and go for a walk. At the end of the trail we noticed a caravan park and decided to give it a try. We checking in the the Aire de Camping Car which was part of the site but slightly at the back and slightly cheaper. It had electricity and access to all the facilities. We had noticed these stands as part of the other sites we had seen and assumed it was part of the campsite. Tip: Ask if you can park there at the reception. It is way cheaper!



We unpacked and grabbed the picnic mat and headed off to the lake and lay down to read our books for a while.

Got the bikes off and went for a ride trough town and along the lake. I was set on swimming somewhere and went for a dip.

All hell broke loose at about 10pm, turns out that it was Karaoke night and we soon discovered the site was full of adolescent boys whose voices were breaking. Enough pillows could not hide the bellowing that lasted well into the early morning........ I still shudder at the thought of it. TIP: If your are in a campsite on the weekend, especially Saturday, Get wasted, or join in.

23 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

Woke up at sparrow fart, 7.30am (I know life is tough!)After a small doze we managed to get to Reception at 8.30am. Surely it couldn't be that bad – the reception board said they only open at 8.30am. On arrival we were already faced with at least 4 contenders looking for an electric spot. We intended to be at this site for 3 nights at least. With happy hearts we sat and read our books in the queue on the bench like good children. Chapter after chapter, hour after hour. Fortunately we were in good spirits and settled down to our cool 4 hour wait until 12h00 only to be told that there are no sites available and we could come back tomorrow. We were animal hungry so we cooked up a feast then went to the beach for the rest of the day. Which was should we say very entertaining but contained far for male nudity than a open shower at a Virgin Active Gym. Note: This area is sited for “France for Nudism” and it is well supported or “not well supported” ...excuse the pun.

The cunning photo reveals more than it seems....what a shame it is uploaded in low res!

Hossegar, France – Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

22 July
Hossegar, France – Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

Another slow coastal drive to a site called Cap de Homy. We read about this site in the Cool Camping book and it sounded great. It's a municipal site and as we have learned these are often neat and tidy.

When we checked in at around 3pm they said they had no sites available with electricity. The receptionist suggested that we come back the next morning to request a site. We asked what time should be a good time to arrive and she answered 8am.

After lazying the afternoon away – we were keen to get the prawns on the braai. That was not to happen as there is no fires with charcoal permitted. Only gas TIP: This happens at many a site. Too happy just to enjoy prawns we stuck them in the pan wit garlic and butter. Tasty!

Ax les Bains – Hossegar, France

21 July
Ax les Bains – Hossegar, France

We lowly trundled through to the coast again. Our friend, Graeme, had suggested Hossegar area. He's a keen surfer and the area is a superb match to this lifestyle. Beaches are joined village by village. Really an ideal summer holiday buzz. Loads of sandy beaches, surfers,mariners, lunch spots and fresh air.

Something I think everyone loves about France is the Boulangeries (trans. bakers). With the sweet tooth we have been born with, it was here we discovered the Beignet. An angelic evil to the taste buds and your figure. A doughnut square (no hole) filled with a large amount of Nutella with sprinkles of icing sugar on the top. You cannot hide the deliciousness of these more-ish delights, no matter how neat a eater you are, the tell-tale dribbles of chocolate will appear around your mouth.

An aire which is more like a campsite is offered at 7 euro per 24 hours is found under the canopy of pine trees. This is where we based camp for a night. Some people had clearly been there for much longer - though they were harmless beachbums living for the surf.

There is a toilet – but portaloo is a better option. It really fills up a lot with campers of all sorts – young and old. A really secure site as it seems the Beach Cop and a few cronies come to check if everyone is there with a paid ticket.

Aix les Bains

20 July
Aix les Bains

So Nick and I decided it a really good idea to see what was at the dead end of the road our little campsite was on. It was supposed to be the last little remote village. We trambled through on a steep hill – with Nick in his usual positive coaching spirit. It must have been about 5 minutes in when my concentration almost turned to severe groaning and 8 minutes for the sound of Nickys' enthusiastic chants to subside. Half way there and we both concluded we were quite possibly encounter death if we proceeded any further. Yes, perhaps it was the wine from the night before, I don't dispute that, but if you saw the hill you would understand.

With a pant of a dry throat the bikes were turned and a clear free wheel all the way down again. We carried on past a few little villages. Original French buildings both modernly dilapidated and lived in. Plenty of photo taking in the hope that I get to painting at sometime.

Feeling quite proud of my recent regular cycling habits – Nick agreed we should head back. Something funny about cycling is – sometimes you just can't remember free wheeling downhill – and this dawns on you when you have to peddle back up it. Nothing like a free ride, they say – certainly so! Managing to have gained momentum I wondered where my very goodlooking husband was. Then I looked back and saw at least 50 metres behind me Nick was peddling with passion. He was not alone. About 5 metres behind him a dog was barking hot on his tail! It was hysterical! In fits of laughter all momentum was lost from my side. Nick was doing well but the dog was quite possibly doing better. Nick was shouting “He's gonna eat me” x 1000. The dog had pulled out of a drive with his master driving a tractor. The tractor was miles back by this stage and fortunately the dog realised his owner had turned off to one of the fields, returning defeated by the great Nick. It was possibly the highlight of my day.

Like 2 nerds we thought this was a good enough reason to return to the indulgence of our books. Not much else is needed to be said... too much relaxing going on.

TIP: in this little town there is a Aire for Camping Cars. It is free of charge and is based in a quite little place close to walks for waterfalls. We were more than happy to stay at the campsite though as it was only 15 Euros per night including electricity.

Aix les Bains

19 July
Aix les Bains


After a really long night we decided we were not going to follow on to the next Tour De France point. We were in need of peace and quiet. Fortunately our prayers were answered! A really scenic drive took us further into the mountains. Rushing water followed everywhere we went. Filling our water bottles with fresh spring water added to the feeling of the great outdoors. It was also the best toothe brush we had ever had.


The campsite too had a bubbling river edging by. It was at the foot of a mountain in a tiny village. One butcher, one baker, one campsite. The butcher appeared closed – but he was there. A big strong serious French man who looked like if you happened to get him angry – he could do some damage with a knife. He ambled out silently, assisted us with the ordering of the boerie and the pork chops (which were really the only things on offer – other than pate), took our money and in his odd quiet way left from the backdoor (70cm away from the frontdoor), whilst we left from the front and walked across the slim single track road to his cottage.

Having come into town our bikes we ventured back to read under the shade of the tall trees. To be honest – I had a nap. Glorious!

From slumber to the sound of crackling coals (the worst coals in history). Braaiing, wine and chatting.

Catalonia, Spain – Ax les Thermes

18 July
Catalonia, Spain – Ax les Thermes

We woke up this morning and headed straight for the bar at the site to make use of the wifi.


After much pain and suffering we eventually got the correct password and could connect. We called the family and after talking to Amy's Dad who happened to be watching the Tour de France on the TV. We decided that we are just to close to not go. We packed up in a hurry and headed for the Ax les Thermes, a small that that the Tour would be coming through. We only managed to get near the town before we were confronted by police blockades. So we grabbed the bikes off the back of Ruby and proceeded to free wheel the remaining 5 miles down the mountain with the absolute fear of knowing one of us or both of us will have to ride back up to the car at the end of the day. Nevertheless it was all part of partaking in the Tour de France! Riding up the gruelling hills of the Pyrenees.

We arrived in town just in time to catch the floats coming through. ( for those who dont know the Tour is not merely bicycles. There are hundreds of cars,vans, motorbikes and more that come past in front of the riders displaying goods and advertising, tossing gifts and freebies at the fans waiting for the riders to come past.)

After about 1,5 hours of waiting the sky became alive with helicopters which was a sure sign that the riders were close. Then all of a sudden you can hear the fans erupting like a continuous Mexican Wave as the riders enter the town. First the leaders speed in then followed by the leading Peleton and then the rest. Some bloodied and bruised, some focused and some smiling and waving at the fans. All in all it was a wonderful experience.


After about another hour we decided we should go back to the van as it was getting close to 19h00, which was the time the blockade was meant to open. We donned our helmets and got on the bikes then started climbing out of what was a beautiful town soon became hell. Nevertheless we managed and got back to Ruby and cooled down and played a game of cards or two waiting for the traffic to ease. Once we thought it was a clear to go we started up and headed down the hill. How I wish we had just turned around and headed back the way we had originally come. We ended up taking 5 hours to get back to the town. As it was a mountain pass there was no place for us to pull off and if there was the previous 5 million people had beaten us to the decision.

Our view for the rest of the day

Finally we made it to a garage with a large parking lot with a whole bunch of campers parked and were settling for bed. I had one look at the bell tower convieniently right next to the bay we had stopped in and changed my mind about staying here for the night as it had just rung for twelve o'clock and I could not imagine a whole night of progressive ringing. We drove off only to be confronted by the traffic so we turned back to the parking lot as we were both smashed and thought there was no chance that the church bell could keep us awake.

We parked yet again in the same spot and made the bed then climbed in....... nope you guessed it. If Spain had a gang that loved to support cycling, they decided to pull in to the parking lot for a few beers, initiation ceremony and, well if you got to go, you might as we go next to Ruby. Luckily our Van neighbour was more nervous than us and called the cops who arrived 5 seconds after they left. Funny that? Anyway the cops fumbled through the garbage that all the “Homies” left and sped off after them. This was not good enough for the neighbour who packed up his scooter into his Van and followed in pursuit.

Finally we fell asleep at about 2:30, 3:00, 4:00, 5:00, 6:00, 7:00........