Roussillon, France – Catalonia, Spain

17 July
Roussillon, France – Catalonia, Spain

Nick and woke up early and made use of the cool (for once) morning air. We took a drive through the Pyrenees. A true reflection of how the French have maintained there country's beauty. In a setting like this – one could forget about the strains of life, move into a narrow street with the building shadowing the road – to open the back room shutters and see the mountains. The fresh air, the view... and all is forgotten.

The scenery was being soaked in so much that it was only when we arrived at the Carrefour (Tesco or Spar equivalent) that we noticed all the pricing was in Spanish. We thought nothing of it as we were heading toward Andorra. Arriving at the camp site – the owner started out with “Ola”! Again, Spanish. Whilst Nick was fetching the passport – I asked shyly - “Sorry to ask a silly question, but, where are we? The lady looked confused. I asked again slowly. She smiled and said Catalonia. Some how we had landed up in Spain. You have got to love the Schengen Agreement.

Our site is alongside a little stream under plenty of trees. We are currently lazying about, reading, blogging, sketching and reading SA mags (thanks Mom). Later we plan to hit the net for a short while to determine the rest of our trip. Then, we'll do what comes naturally again, laze about. With less than a month to go to return to normal life – work, socialising, etc. (I can't think of anymore partially because I forgotten what normal life is) – you will probably find that our speech is so slow that it is impaired, our stress factor will be slow you could not “boo” a scare and that we might be totally unacceptable in society.

For now though – a hot shower. The first in days...

Sainte Maries De La Mer

16 July
Sainte Maries De La Mer

Travelling through a very different landscape we learned that the incredible wetlands are where the flamingoes visit in March (I think it was March). A really flat landscape with various earthy shades of browns and greens with the glimmer of low blue waters. An interesting place for an artist I would guess.

Not only this – there are a few very old fashioned and typically French fishing huts that have obviously been there for many a year. The town of Sainte Maries De La Mer summed up the drive with a old seaside fishing village style. Veggie stores, tiny little side streets and the natural colours of the aged buildings in a functioning modern town. The beach is even better. This is where we stayed for the most of the day. Just to let you know we weren't too lazy we also went for a cycle.

TIP: there is also a free camp right on the beach. It is called the Sainte Maries de La Mer Plages Est. Free camps aren't that free anymore it seems – but at 9.50 Euro's per day right alongside the beach – who can sneeze? One fall back is that it was very full and your neighbour will be very close.

Later in the early evening we drove further and stayed in an aire on the toll road. This was the first time we had done it. TIP: In France there are usually really nice aire's on the toll roads. This gets you to you next destination quicker and saves you on your campsite. They normally have toilets and fresh water. If you stop at one with a petrol station – then you potentially have use of a chemical toilet, restaurant and local produce shop. There is often a quite section for campers and caravans in the tree filled parking lot sheltered from any roadside noise. They also provide tables and chairs with an area kids or pets can cruise around. We even had a couple that used a pop up tent on the ground to kip over with their two kids. So as long as there are others using the site – it is usually quite safe.



My very beautiful and clever Nick found mussels on his snorkel at Sainte Maries de La Mer. So for dinner we enjoyed a fresh mussel pot that the goodlooking chef cooked up. He also found treasure whilst he was down there – a brand new pair of Ray Bans – for girls. Score!

Port St Louis Du Rhone

15 July
Port St Louis Du Rhone

Nick wanted to go to the Carmargue. This is an area of flat wetlands and is a national park. Along the way we bought a free camp/campsite book for France. It had a little tour of the area but we decided to make two stops out of the suggested. The first was Port St Louis is a harbour and fishing town at the very start of the Camargue. Very pretty and very French. I love the French.

We found our free camp for the night through our book which mentioned a 6 Euro fee. On arrival it said on the noticeboard in French 6 Euro 24 hours. Then a whole page of font size 10 writing – again, all in French. There was no pay box. There was no man. Just open ground. A visit to to the Tourism Info Bureau gave us a bit of information. The lovely lady attempted best as possible in English to explain. Pointing out three places on a map. One of which I understood was where to pay. On arrival it was a restaurant. Nick went in regardless. We have learnt before these things are possible – like with our traffic fine.

Nick politely told the Frenchman equipped with apron that he would like to pay. The man said “Yez sure” and held his hand out waiting for payment. Not having a clue what Nick wanted to pay for – he slapped Nick on the back laughing and gave him a hug. When Nick told him what the payment was for the waiter burst into laughter and said he was definitely at the wrong place. Giving up for answers, we went back to site and set up for the evening. Loads of campers came through, read the sign and drove off. No-one had a clue what was going on. It turned out that at 11am the next day a man would come collect the 6 Euro from you. Most people left before 11am and hence these poor souls are making no money. Never mind the number of vanners who turned away due to lack of instruction.

Anyway, it was nothing fancy. Literally a large space on the harbour quay. If you're into fishing it would be a great location as you can stay 48 hours for 12 Euro's. At the end of our trip I will compile all the details of addresses etc.

14 July
Nice to Cannes

Would you believe we slept until 10am? Definitely the first time this holiday. Feeling rather sticky we both agreed we needed a shower. We arrived at the first campsite in Cannes where they informed us that the site charge for a little van and 2 people was 49 Euro's. The most exorbitant charge so far. It is Cannes though. I've always wanted to visit Cannes but after the day yesterday, it is to be left for another time.

So we headed out to the next closest site (on the tom tom ACSI Campings List, that is). Simple site. To far to hop on your bike to town (I would think). One up though, it had a pool. Back in France means no swimming caps! The rest of the day was spent reading and repacking Ruby for her and our comfort. We devoured a scrumptious dinner. Then in return the mozzies devoured my scrumptious legs.

France - Menton, Monaco and Nice

13 July
France - Menton, Monaco and Nice

It was with great excitement to see this area and to be back in France. We stopped in Menton originally thinking it was a suburb in Monaco. It's actually a little town outside. The tom tom helped us to get to a camping car parking site. On the Quay. We figured this would be an awesome stop to stay overnight. Right next to the beach. Being back in France they have loads of free public showers lining the promenade. Parking turned out to be free. The only thing is that we couldn't figure out if you could stay overnight. Being overly cautious we read the sign 50 times over in our best French... which is a bit like our best Chinese. Then, decided to forget about it and cycle the boardwalk.

We ended up in another little town called Roquebrune. Don't get too overwhelmed by my cycling capabilities yet. It was like riding from Kings Beach to the lollipop. For non PE peeps – that is about 4.5km and then returned to retire on the sand with the occasional swim.

Town was right there and really beautiful. Again, we roamed the market in search of our fresh produce and returned back to Ruby. There were these annoying little temporary signs saying no stopping or your car would be towed on non other but 14 July. That meant the next day. Then there was about a five page legal essay (all in French) supporting this. It planted doubt in my mind that our stay over would be appropriate.

We headed for Motorhome camping garages. These all turned out to be underground parking lots – where it is not allowed to sleep overnight. Purely just a parking. After a few of these site visits – we headed toward Nice to the closest campsite. It happened to be on the opposite side of Nice. We came within 5 km's of the site and were stuck in the biggest traffic jam ever (well, almost ever). The 13th of July is the day before the Bastille Day/National Day in France. A public holiday. Why did it cause such insane craziness of cars the day before? We did not know. Ruby was getting hot and flustered. So we turned off, drove the opposite direction and managed to find a parking in a lot outside the Superstore which was only opened specifically for this event as it was after hours.

It is important that I tell you we were in the car for 4 hours looking for a new site. Only to be stuck in traffic a few kilometres away. I was getting the grumps. We climbed out the car and followed the rest of the crowd. They took us to the beach front. It was filled with people lining the pebbled beaches, walking the promenade and eating in the many enticing restaurants (I was starved by this point). There was even a band playing. The folks were line dancing to French translated American songs. The neighbouring blocks of flats had a resident and partner slip out for their tango. It was oddly rewarding after such a long trek.

A decision was made that there was no way that we were moving anywhere until after the traffic subsided. It was by this time 10pm-ish. A stop back at Ruby for a bottle of wine, cheeses and any other bits we had were gathered. We joined the masses of families on the pebbles enjoying their tailor made picnics. People swam in the moonlight flittering on the sea. Then out of the blue a loudspeaker poured out opera music and the fireworks began. Now, I know earlier we had seen the fireworks display in Florence and loved every never ending minute. This, however, was incomparable. Opera is such a passionate type of music. The mixture of music with the fireworks exploding on the beats and accentuating on the highs. I do not know much about music. If I did – I could possible explain this better. All I can say though was that it brought tears to our eyes. It was a very special moment.

Nick and I decided to join in a swim under the French night sky. Cooled ourselves. Washed under the fresh water public shower as well as possible – we were not going to shower this night. The crowds had dispersed by midnight and we climbed into Ruby almost certain all the campsites were closed. We headed off to the campsite the tomtom had originally noted. It was closed – so were the four others in the same street thereafter. Ruby parked on the side of the road outside the campsite and we all fell fast asleep.

Genoa East

12 July
Genoa East

After a long drive (about 5 odd hours) we arrived in the East of Genoa. We saw a signboard saying “Last Campsite before Genoa”. Genoa happens to be about 25km's away from the site. As it was heading to afternoon and our bums were tired from sitting we moved up the steep hill. Second in line (after a tent booking) we secured ourselves a little site.

The beach was calling us from below. On the stroll down reception had 3 campers waiting in line for their spot. Two were turned away as there was no space. Ruby was also asked to move to shift upfor another van. Leaving us with a London size patio. The reason why I am telling you this is – either they had a good marketing ploy by use of their sign or genuinely there is no other site available. Nevertheless, it is a very sub-standard site. As we approached the stairs a cute little Italian lady started to talk to us in quite an insistent fashion. Totally confused – we smiled and tried to make more sense. She then made us follow her (jabbering away in Italian) to, what we figured out, was a shuttle. To the beach. This was most welcomed as the stairs had a huge painted on sign 500m. Now, I can walk 500m but you should have seen how steep they were. When we arrived at the site a family came up chugging, leaving Dad behind carrying all the beach goodies and lilo's.

It must be said the round trip shuttle was free. One could only understand why – as they might have lost all their clients to begin with – having had no pool. It was said there are 2 beaches. One pebbled, one further along sand. Nick and I have been liking the pebbled beaches because they leave you sand free. It was small and lovely. You could see school is out for holidays with the teenagers snogging and the single few playing Uno alongside. The water was warm but refreshing.

At the top of the beach cliff we wandered and found quaint fruit and veg stores where we bought our ingredients for dinner. Then made our way home in a very packed shuttle to the site on the hill.

Pisa

11 July
Pisa

Both of us decided that we will head back north. Originally we were going to try visit the tip of the boot. Ruby is just a little slow and time is running out. Things also work better up north. The drivers as we have said are another story too. Nick and I even made a few names for these avid Team Ferrari amateurs. Here are a few of the names:

Luigi Likealotto Cutthecorners
Guiseppi Overtakeon Solidline-o's
Luca Liketo Comeinmy Lane-o
Marco Maybestopping Here-o
and many more...

Anyway, if you don't think it's funny, it's a private joke. We have a lot of time on our hands. It's not quite eye spy – but it keeps us entertained.
So we started the long trek up along the west coast and made a stop at Pisa.

It is tiny! The Tower that is. Much smaller than I would have ever expected. You can see that this architecturally wrong piece is the definite pride of the city. Another thing is it had a Basilica (I think) and some other building alongside. Set in the same style as the tower and just a beautiful. This too wasn't expected. I thought it stood alone.

There are lush green lawns surrounding all these. Nick and I originally planned a mini picnic on the grass – wine, cold meats, cheese and crackers. We brought everything along except the crackers. Plus the grass was being watered ao we couldn't sit. To be honest, it was severely hot and probably better under the shade cloth back at camp. So we hopped back on our bicycles and left.

On arrival at the campsite earlier we had chatted to our Kiwi site neighbours, Ann and Kevin Anton. When we returned we invited them to watch the FIFA final with us at the onsite pub. Well, we all chatted up a storm and had a great giggle. In fact, by the end of the evening the most of us were a little merry (or maybe that was just me?).

TIP: not sure if I have mentioned this elsewhere on the blog... In Italy it is a standard to swim with a swimming cap. Some pools allow you to swim if you do not wet you hair (regardless of how little you may have) and other strictly do not. If you travel Italy in the summer – you need to swim. It is a human right in that heat. Take your cap.

Casa Bianca

10 July
Casa Bianca

After a swim in the ocean and a wholesome breakfast we went in search of another coastal destination. Our wallet needed to be replenished – so an hour into the drive we looked for a bancomat (trans. ATM) and we needed diesel. As we were on the toll road we stopped at many a petrol station. Nothing. The funny thing in Italy is – that most people want you to pay in cash. Then, when paying by cash, they are very particular in change and hate to part with any of their float. To top it all off there seems to be no banks around. So we punched into our tomtom for a bank. With just enough money to get off the toll road, the tomtom proceeded to take us through farm and mountain and finally at the very peak to a tiny (and I mean tiny) little town. It was called Tontorino. As picturesque that it was – it had one ATM. Only one. To top this all off – it was offline for international transactions.

Another strange thing is, is between the hours of 1.30 to 3.30 most places close. For lunch, a sleep and I only hope a shower (as it is scorching everywhere). Even the ATM's take a break. On arrival at the next bancomat (which was also hugely off the chart – thanks, tomtom) the time was 2.58. Nick placed our plastic into the teller. Nothing. No lights – nothing. He walked away. Then decided, it has got to work! Two hours of searching of a bank is not fun. He turned back. As Nick stood there, the lights started to work and in a shudder of technology the machine was working. It was 3pm on the dot.

TIP: Always make sure you have extra cash on you – tucked away.

Ruby ambled on along the coast (no more tollroads). As the day was almost over we looked for a site but preferred parcheggio (trans. parking lot/potential free camp). With no luck we turned into a site.

It turned out to be the best parcheggio ever. Not a campsite. Yet it had toilet and shower facilities. Not great but manageable. Direct access to the beach. With rentable umbrellas and deckchairs. Grassed sites, a little tight but okay for one night. And – even evening entertainment. For 15 Euro's!! per site, regardless the number of people in your van. Very friendly onsite staff too.

We went straight to the beach and swam. The cool sea breeze was welcomed whilst we cooked dinner and enjoyed a glass of white wine.

????? Lanciano

9 July
Here we sit – not knowing where we are. (Minutes later: Nick has done some research and we are in Lanciano)

It's pretty good though. We stopped for lunch at this really fantastic beach. Went for a swim after. Then – just didn't get up. Lay in the sun reading. After I had fallen asleep – Nicks realised we had lost track of time. Finally we got up and walked to the van. Ruby received her first international parking ticket for 38 Euro's. We were like, there are so no signs here. OOPS!

15 meters down the road there was a campsite. We thought, okay, this is it. Out of interest we asked reception about the fine and whether there are any signs. The man said “no, you buy the ticket from here” (for 2 Euro a day). Nick looked in disgust. How were we supposed to know? There are no signs.

Anyway, the site is awesome. Literally on the sea. We are slowly getting used to the Pool Area's verbal diarrhoea-ed DJ's that are placed at every campsite pool. Whether it is “VIA VIA VIA” (trans. GO GO GO) for the kids egg and spoon race or the noisy introduction to the water aerobics session. It keeps you in hysterics as you still don't have a clue what's going on. The other thing is – this site (like some others) request swimmers to wear swimming caps. It reminds me of days at junior school swimming class. Though this time, it's adults and children alike. Nick and I were the rebels and climbed in anyway. We genuinely saw no signs and acted like dumb tourists. Nothing was said. Cooled off we retired to our Ruby Red where I have been blogging ever since. Nick has been reading his book and cooked me dinner. We had so much to catch up on on the blog and we were so far behind! So please know – it is not all play – there is a little work here and there. Just no stress.

Gargona National Park – Vieste

8 July
Gargona National Park – Vieste



A drive from west to east. In find of a different coastline. A much cooler one. One with wind! Something we hadn't had in awhile. I hate wind. This was welcomed. Stunning campsite. Right across the road from the beach with large pool. We didn't go for a swim. Possibly the first day in a long while where the opportunity was there and we didn't take it. I had a nap in the cool air. Nick read his book with the view of the beach in front of him.

Later, our neighbours (Ladia and Helen from Czech) popped by and we swopped experiences and excursions. It was great to share stories and thoughts.

Amalfi Coast

7 July
Amalfi Coast

On booking out – we thanked Xenia and Irene profusely – not only for their recommendation of tour operator but for their kindness.

Xenia had mentioned not to travel the Amalfi Coast in a car, certainly not a van. Not sure why we ended up doing it – but we did. The tom tom said there was a campsite – but it turned out to be a hotel. The concierge type guy said “no campsites in this area at all”. Initially I thought – he might want to get us into his hotel (no chance). We soon realised there was really no site. There is also no way I was to attempt the hills and mountains by bicycle. There was traffic in narrow streets like none other. Nick said “it takes a huge amount of concentration, you have to use your brown eye too”. Death defying corners. Italian drivers of bus, truck, car and scooter. The goodlooking Nick learnt quickly – when in doubt – hoot! That's what they do. You never sure if you're in trouble or if they just want to overtake you! So we motored (as promptly as Ruby can go) past Positano (which is beautiful) to Amalfi.


Amalfi welcomed us with a car park. Something not too regularly seen in these areas. At 5 Euro's for 3 hours of parking – we went and trambled through the streets and along the boulevard. We have both decided that we will come back one day. Arrive in Naples (God forbid) by plane and rent a scooter. Stay at hotels and eat at restaurants. Otherwise do a cruise. These are the ways to do this coastline. Something I do not want to miss.


Mix of driving and heat tired us. We punched in for the closest campsite on the GPS. It was only a few miles away from the lovely Villaggio Campeggio Blue Green. It was a fatal mistake at the idea that if the new site, iPini, had a pool this would be the stop. It did. A walk straight to the pool in desperation. There were kids. In swimming caps. A coach. Swimming lanes. An older chap doing butterfly. Yes, swimming training. Then to make it worse a little boy on a kicker board climbed out in need of a wee. The coach directed him towards the outdoor shower. We have learned that the outdoor shower with foot basin is there for pre wash before and after swims. This is part of the swimming rules. Wash feet and body before entering public pool. The little boy pulled down his speedo and from him protruded a yellow trickle. In the basin. He then, promptly jumped back in the pool. Kick. Kick. Kick. To top it off, his dad was on the side actually looking proud!?

We went to bed without a swim. TIP: All round – miss this site.

Piano Di Sorrento

6 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Xenia had mentioned that we could get some info on things that we could do in the area. She is incredibly passionate about her region and country. The typical warmth you are told of when people return from trips to Italy. Strangely, we had not discovered these sort yet and so when we met Xenia it was very touching.

My Granny had gone to the Isle of Capri years ago. I had figured that we were pretty close to the Island. Nick and I have both written in our dream books (a book with things we want, want to see and do, etc – and tick off once done) to see the Blue Grotto and potentially swim in it. We had originally heard about the Blue Grotto from very special friends of ours, Dave and Zelda Moore. They had visited it – but in Santorini.

A visit to reception and a chat with Xenia's very helpful daughter, Irene, allowed us to get a great deal on an island tour. Now, you'll have to forgive me. I am usually the keeper of all brochures and flyers. This flyer, however, I have misplaced. So I can't tell you the name. For 34 Euro's per person with a full trip and general guide from Masse Lubrense, with transfers from the meeting point and return and 5 hours to wander Capri on your own it was really worthwhile. Not only this, but our lovely ladies from reception insisted that Xenia will drive us to the meeting point (free of charge).

We left the site at 7.45 with Xenia. She explained that the site was her family's since 1870. Owned by her Grandmothers Grandfather. Everyone there is her family. She explained how she loves her land and her guests. Every word that leaves this lady's mouth is heaven sent. Xenia is one of the worlds little blessings.

The shuttle arrived and we all crammed in.

Arriving at Masse Lubrense we were escorted onto a cruiser. We headed off into the ocean. Nick and I walked Capri. Fortunately, decided to take the, TIP: funicular, to the top and strolled the town.

As both of us are bad shoppers (Nick is better than I) we found a path to the beach on the opposite side of the island. Bearing in mind that we walked enough stairs and mountains this holiday and this walk was only down (not up) it was a gruesome walk. Very pretty nonetheless. Very steep. Plenty stairs. And then there was the reward at the bottom – the ocean.

We attempted to find a route to the beach. In Italy, everywhere matching umbrellas and sun loungers line the beaches. We soon walked, by accident, into one and were informed a swift 18 Euro's per person to be paid for the day. The gentleman at the counter saw our backs shortly. There are small patches of public beaches though. Everything a person needs. Sea, pebbles and sun. Luke warm water. Arrh. What a life!


All Nick could think of was snorkel. He bought one at the local and off he went. Again, the trash and litter problem in Italy is severe. Nick came back saying he saw a good few fish but plenty other paraphernalia. Fishing rods, trash, plates and he even found me a brand new hairband. After a few hours relaxing in the sun, taking a dip, then sunning ourselves, then some floating about we decided to head back to the centre. If the walk down was strenuous – you can only image how up went.

The island is a mountain basically, so wherever you stand you get a great panorama. The town is filled with expensive boutiques, lavished ladies in gorgeous clothing, then plenty a tourist, little restaurants and gelateria's (yes, answers your question, another one) and is very character filled.

Our crew was back at 15h45 (on the nod) – we found a place on the front of the boat. The water had become a little more choppy than the morning. It didn't bother us as we were hoping we could get to swim in the Grotto Azzura.



When we arrived there were many other tour operators waiting in turn for their passengers to get their row boat. Row boats only hold 4 passengers and the rower. It costs 11 Euro per person to go into the Grotto. This is separate to your tour cost. We watched in awe at how these boatmen ask the passengers to duck (lay totally flat) and pull the boat and themselves through the tiniest gap in the wall. Nick and I were the second group to go from our cruise. The boatman preceded to the opening of the cave about 3 foot high and grabbed hold of a chain that is connected to the inside of the cave. This is because the opening of the cave is too small to row through. With one yank and lying down at the same time, we were in the cave.

Nick compared it to being born again. You find yourself in this large opening with this shining blue light. Something you have never seen before. The boatmen started to sing in age old tradition. His voice bouncing from wall to wall. Other boatmen joined in. Nick found a silent moment and asked if we could swim. The man answered “something extra for me?” - basically asking for a tip. Without hesitation Nick jumped in and I followed. Then, the male passenger saw what we had done and joined us. Leaving only his fiance and the boatman behind.

Everytime you touched the water – it would illuminate in electric blues. The feeling of being immersed in it was life changing. Something dreams were made of. It is at this time that I must tell you that I have a really weird fear of swimming in the sea and rivers – especially in the ocean. Never mind the fact that there was no sand underneath me. Just a great depth. The water demon thoughts did not come over me. It was a spiritual and fulfilling experience. TIP: If you are close to the Isle of Capri – join this excursion. It is a must do in life. So far, the highlight of our holiday.

As new boats entered – it seemed that the boatman was told off by his colleague and we had to hop back into the boat. Swimming is apparently not allowed. When returning to the boat Nick grabbed his wallet. The boatman was almost on his way – so Nick stretched out and handed him a tip that equalled the Grotto ticket costs. No money would have ever been enough for the experience.

Image from google
The trip continued. On a high we visited the green grotto, the white grotto, passed the beach we swam in and kissed under the Tunnel of Love. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Piano Di Sorrento

5 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Nice late start. Slept – though the sun peaked into the van. Hopped on the 12 o'clock beach shuttle and returned at 4pm.


The beach had black sand – strange. Every inch filled with a towel. Otherwise you could join the cloned umbrellas and sunbeds. We found a quite spot. Until a group of 15 year old boys arrived. As 15 year olds do – they caused havoc. All day. It was fun though. Pretty much what you expect from a beach holiday. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. You get the picture...

For those that know me, I am as pale as white paper. These days I boast a freckled tan. Not too proud actually. It has happened without knowing. I'm usually dead against too much suntanning. It is very difficult in this weather to deny it. And it must be said – I have thoroughly enjoyed it. Nicks not doing too bad himself. He is pretty much an Italian himself!

After lazing at the campsite it was time for yet another sunset. What more could we ask for?

Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

4 July
Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

Early rise and strolled to Pompeii. Very much looking forward to a day of exploring.

TIP: When we went for a quick walk to the site yesterday we were informed by a market man selling his wares that we must by a guide book to Pompeii. He said that there is no information at all available once you're up at the entrance. Having arrived at the entrance there were booths for audio guides, licensed tour guides, a free map and booklet you get with your ticket. Do not be fooled.

We decided on an audio guide at 10 Euros for 2 people. The alternative was to join the group – at 10 Euro's per person with a registered tour guide for a 2 hour walk.

Pompeii was a thriving Roman City. It suffered a huge earthquake and a few years after that, Mt Vesuvius erupted burying the city with volcanic ash.



It was discovered in the 1800's and only excavated years later. People were buried alive. The city was left very much intact. It gave a great overview from the “lupo” (trans. whore)

houses to laundromats, where using urine was part of cleaning the laundry. We walked it in 3 hours and it was plenty. Roman scholars might want to take longer. TIP: Again ladies, no heels or wedgies - you will battle or look insanely stupid.




Mt Vesuvius was about an hours drive away. Up a winding road you find that you enter straight into a parking lot. Here – a man asks you for 5 Euro parking fee. TIP: Park just before the entrance (where there are a handful of other cars or buses) and skip the charge. They also charge you to walk up the mount (at 6.50 Euro's p. person).

The volcano is Europe's only active volcano and is considered the worlds most dangerous as there are some 6000 people living at the foot of the volcano. There are literally houses and restaurants jotted all the way to the top. At the entrance of the very steep walk – men offer you walking sticks – in hope to have a tip in return when you give them back. Unless you are really unfit, have a disability or are aged you do not need one of these. Good shoes are key. Again – TIP: No high heels or wedgies. It must be said that in both Pompeii and Vesuvius women had attempted this. It genuinely is not worth it. If you break your leg or twist your ankle it will take a while for any medical help to reach you.

It is quite amazing to think you are standing on an active volcano.

You almost expect that steam should be smouldering at the top. Although on this day the heat caused haziness – there must be quite a view on cooler days. The crater is entirely closed with vegetation and earth. The volcanic ash allows perfect nutrients for the soil and the entire area surrounding the mount and all of the land below with beautiful greenery. Unfortunately, in this area (anywhere close to Naples) there is terrible litter. Even in the Mt Vesuvius National Park. It is incredibly disappointing to see dumps all along the sides of the roads.

After a lot of exercise we decided to find a beach. We drove towards Positano – punched in for a campsite on the GPS. There were very few available. It was decided that we will use the one that looked on the tip of the coastline. We arrived at Villaggio Campeggio BlueGreen campsite to find the warmest and most lovely Italian lady, Xenia. She said she will do her best to give us a site with a view. It is very difficult not to, especially when the site is on the edge of a cliff with at least 100m drop to the ocean. We settled in for the night – enjoying the surroundings.

As the site did not have a pool (the views make up for it and they have a shuttle for 1 Euro return to the beach), Nick and I filled our little dish bak (trans. bucket) and had a mini splash. Then retired on our picnic blanky with both pairs of feet in the cold water and read our books.

At one stage we had to leap up with glass of wine in hand to sit at the tip of the site with the view of the ocean and the sun setting behind it. Magic.

Rome - Pompeii

3 July
Roma - Pompeii

We had news that our lovely sister, Sarah, had given birth to a beautiful baby boy, Joseph. So pleased by this news our morning was filled with happiness. Chatting to family and sharing the joys was the highlight of our morning.

We decided not to go into town but move on toward Pompeii. A chap we had met in Rome recommended the Spartikus Campsite. We spent most of the afternoon in the pool cooling us from the drive.

It has a superb location across the road from the Pompeii Ruins. Our site was right next to the reception though. One thing you will come to notice, is that in the Naples region they rent rooms by the hour. And being next to reception – we learnt this here. All night, cars came in and out, giggling girls on the back of motorbikes and chatter. Very interesting for what seemed like a family resort. It was decided that the guy who recommended the site must have been placed deeper in the site – further away from the chalets.

Rome

2 July
Roma

Launched ourselves out of bed for yet another day of exploring. As we were only half alive on the day before Hop On Hop Off bus experience – we hopped on again. A few stops to the St Johns Basilica. This is the Popes church outside the Vatican. Our ticket allowed for another free audio guide and we took a stroll through. On the sides of the Basilica there are small Chapels. These are named after special people or families they were made for. Amazingly enough, we heard that each Chapel is privately owned in present times. Again, Bernini features with a glowing golden shrine. It is said to be the oldest church in the world. It was also the first place where Christianity was deemed higher than monarchy.

This was done by Emperor Augustus Caesar in about 300 AD. The site of this church was given by the Emperor. It used to be the house of the Pope until The Vatican and St. Peters was established. In later years they built a Baptistry. This was also one of the first of its kind. Usually baptisms were held outside. It is definitely a lovely site to visit.

Speaking English around here is not too much of a problem. There is a huge American community. They work at most of these tourist sites and tend to be very knowledgeable and helpful. There is even a specific church they attend within Rome.

After the Basilica we went to the Spanish Steps – and obviously walked down them.

Known for the teenagers flirting grounds of past -Nick failed to flirt with me – however was confronted by an Indian man that insisted on giving me a rose. A fatal NO! scared him off!

At the bottom, we visited the Trevi Fountains.

This is the fountain that was immortalised by Anita Eckberg, in La Dolce Vita. Here we threw coins over our backs to ensure a return trip to Rome. This area gives you the real feeling of Roma. Filled with romanticism and passion.

A long trek to the Villa Borghese began. Through this massive park with many a welcomed juice stand (not so welcomed when the soda's are 4 Euro a pop) you find the Villa. It is an art museum said to have a better range of art than the Vatican. Well, we were impressed. Sculptures and painting by Bernini (David, Rape of Persephone), Raphael (Christ Being Taken Down from the Cross), Botticelli, Perugino, Caravaggio and much more. A wide range of mosaic floors and frescoed walls surrounded these.

After this, we visited the Colloseum.



It was unfortunately closed at this time though this morning we had decided that we were not too concerned about going in. Never the less, spectacular and amazing.

We went home and met new neighbours. Some Swiss chaps had pulled in long side our site. They were getting on their way for a night on the town. Great guys! Ended up having them for tea or coffee when they arrived back from their jolling (trans. Partying) in the morning.

Rome, Vatican City

1 July
Rome, Vatican City

Arrival at the Vatican City – the smallest sovereign state in the world since late 1920's! With a population of – it even has it's own printed newspaper within the city walls. Walking toward the awaiting queue after collecting our reserved tickets, we were instructed by the Swiss Guard to join the queue. Hang on, I thought we were supposed to just get in? These people had obviously bought tickets too. Then, all of a sudden a tour operator dude, with nothing to do with us at all, ushered us back to the front of the groups queue. With not one group in sight he put us in the front of the line! It must have been either my or Nicks (come to think of it) dashing good looks or our colgate smile! Regardless, we were very grateful not to stand at the end of the shongalolo (millipede). Having said that, the one woman was totally irate with this celebrity entrance arrangement and could not stop muttering in her worst English that this was totally unacceptable. What can you do? Not everyone cracks VIP treatment!

There was an audio guide included on our ticket (as were all the other visits on tickets) but we heard you could upgrade to a tour guide for information on Christianity, art and architecture (opposed to only Christianity) for 15 Euro's each. As we had bought this Roma Christiana ticket, we were given 5 Euro p.person off! Score! Well, worth it! The most eloquent Itailan man. His mouth rounded every word. His passion for this city so strong that when he spoke, you hung on to every syllable.

The history behind these buildings and the assets between their walls is astonishing. One of them, Michaelangelo's Pieta.

Something I have wanted to see all my life. The story goes that he, Michaelangelo, was only about 24 years old when he sculptured this work of art not yet reaching his fame. It was placed in the Basilica and there were a set of critics who said that there were discrepancies. Things like, Mary was so large in size in comparison to her dead son and that Mary looked too young. He was so upset by these remarks that he broke into the Basilica and chisled his signature into her chest – out of pride for his first major work. It was also the only thing he ever signed as in those days one did not sign work. Michaelangelo also said that the reason for Mary's size was she was Jesus' mother and she was always without sin, so she would never age. Good answers, I thought.


In the Basilica you find tombs of past Popes. The most interesting was Pope John the XXIII. He died 40 years ago, then the new Pope had ordered to open his tomb. When they opened the body was perfectly intact. No decomposing or change to the body at all!

This is said to be a sure sign of sainthood and his body is now placed in a glass tomb for all to see. And Pope John the XXIII truly does look perfect in body. Such an incredible story!

Here, they have also found the exact place of St. Peters death, a piece of Jesus' wooden cross and the spear that killed him. Bernini's golden shrine in bronze is so enormous you can only wonder how he managed to create something that size in those years. Michaelangelo's dome is so high itself, it can fit the Statue of Liberty in it and then some. The gold work right through the building is something to marvel over. There is also a type of marble, the most expensive and rare in the world. It is called red porphyry and is more expensive than diamonds as it cannot be found any more. The Vatican owns 80% of this porphyry in the whole world.

In St. Peters Square there is a massive obelisk. It was transported from Egypt in lentils on boats and is more than 2000 years old. It also marks the place where St. Peter was crucified. Years later, they had to move the obelisk. The Pope demanded silence for the duration. If you broke the silence you would be condemned to death. There was a sailor that noticed that the rope was breaking and shouted out “Water on the ropes”! Instead of being condemned to death, he was rewarded by the Pope and given Vatican citizenship. To this day, about 400 years later, his family still decorates the Basilica before mass with flowers.

This is a visit for Catholics and non, for agnostic or atheist, for art lover or hater (with potential conversion), architect or quantity surveyor. It is for everyone. The sense of human history here is so strong that there is something to interest everyone.

We moved on to see the Vatican Museum which houses the Sistine Chapel. We skipped the queue rightfully – thanks to our ticket. It must have been a seriously uncomfortable wait in the sun. TIP: Always try and book tickets prior (unless you want a sunburn, dehydration and sore feet before you even enter).

Again we saw most of the Ninja Turtles! Best of all was the work within the Sistine Chapel. The Last Judgement was especially beautiful. The Creation of Man is dead centre ceiling but to me, almost hidden. I suppose after seeing it in textbooks and around – I expected it to be this one huge vivid image. None the less – spectacular. The Chapel itself is not what I expected – but in truth – one big canvas and celebration of art. Michaelangelo had done partial of the upper walls and ceiling when he was around30 years old. He protested in doing the work initially as he thought himself a sculptor, not a painter. He then went on to paint The Last Judgement at 60 years old. You can see the slight difference in colour with more confidence when he was older. Michalangelo must have been a remarkable man. His knowledge of all aspects of Christianity, antiquity and Dante's “The Divine Comedy” were incorporated in his work.

You will, however, find that the million other tourists gathered in this sacred place are taking photographs – with and without flash. There are many signs, many Swiss Guards and voice-overs expressing the absolute “no photo” policies in various languages. Yet, they carried on and on. Unfortunately, this damages the frescoes and these numb nuts are too selfish and careless to obey. Quite frustrating.

We visited the many rooms with the Renaissance era in focus, the Egyptians and other relics. So much art and history to see you are truly bound to be super nashed by the end of it. And we were...

Our Roma Christiana Hop On Hop Off bus stop was right outside the Vatican. Our feet stung with the days walking. We literally hopped on and did not hop off until we did a full circle of Roma. In our tiredness we saw Bernini's bridge, the Colloseum and more whilst listening to our audio guides. Once it ended we headed home by tube then bus and had an early night.