Pontchateau

31 July – 2 August
Pontchateau

The next site we wanted to visit was next to a French chateau – still owned by a family with at least a 30 character surname – really French. First stop though – Noirmoutiers little fish shop with loads of options. So we bought more oysters and mussels... drool. Then took a typically French drive through vineyards and sunflowers to a town called Sainte-Reine de Bretagne.

It was everything we hoped for for our little inland excursion. So much so that we are still here. There is an indoor outdoor pool, tennis courts, lake with free paddle boats, little otters and loads of birdlife, the old chateau and barn buildings modernised into facilities (used for weddings etc). And so much more. We have found a decent sized site on the lake, have had a few cycle rides, reading up a storm (with new books from the library swop at reception), eating loads of fresh croissants and then braai's to compensate. Even used the potjie for a mussel pot on the day of arrival (mouthwatering – can't talk about it right now – might eat the computer out of desperation). We have also invited a German doctor and his wife (George & Sylvie) round for a potjie tomorrow night. We'll let you know how that goes.

The beach is only a few k's away – so that's another excursion for another day. As always loving this life... can't believe we have 10 days left!

Our Neighbor!

Noirmoutier d Ile

28 July – 30 July
Noirmoutier d Ile
Arriving at Passage du Gois – it happened to be perfect timing. The water had subsided from the road which is usually totally submersed in sea water. Every day the tide goes out and hundreds of people travel to the little island. There are also the additional hundreds that leave their cars on the side of the road – or even some on the wet sand itself – to indulge in oysters, mussels and clam collecting.

It is amazing to see the tide go out and so many creatures being raked up by seafood lovers. We were in hope of finding a spot at Vendetta Camping (part of the Indigo camping group). Although the site has 600+ sites it is high season and this was where we wanted to stay. There are other sites, but this is on the beach and highly recommended.

As Nick returned to the car from Reception – I waited in suspense... We managed to get the last site, literally. With electrics for the max of 3 days. We would honestly have stayed for more if possible. Probably the best site this holiday. Not that I can remember them all – there has just been too many. A momentous thing happened - our attached tent went up for the first time. Just as well as it does get very windy in the afternoons. There is a fantastic little town centre an easy walk (or illegal bike ride away) on a jetty passage. Fresh food from the sea to collect or plenty from the fisheries in town. And cheap. We ate seafood like crazy. Oysters for 12 – something like 3 Euros 80 cents. A kilo of mussels just over 4 Euros. Otherwise you could always collect with the rest of the people raking them up at lowtide.


What an experience. What a campsite. Clean. Even had soap and toilet paper in the loo's – a rare pair. We had actually booked here once before – and cancelled as we were too lazy to move from Chateaulin on a previous trip (also awesome, also Britanny). This is a holiday place of note. A little opportunity to swim in the sea, whilst the rest of the day the tide is out. There are also sailing schools along a still coastline. Cycling routes if you look carefully. Shopping! And more.

If I had to type up a report of every day we were there, I am sure we would make you jealous. No need for gloating... but to end it off, every day was a good day.

Cognac

27 July
Cognac

A must do! In fact – we are going to do it again sometime. Such a stunning little town totally enveloping its heritage. Loads of things to do. Little cycle routes, kids play areas, parks – natural and recreational, tastings of ... cognac, cobbled streets and fields of sunflowers and vineyards. A serious chill session.

Everything is perfect. We booked into a campsite called Cognac de Camping. They said we could not book for more than one night and we were gutted. It happened to be there is a huge jazz fest going on in town called Blues Passion, Cognac. The site is just great and is right along the riverside. We took our bikes into town, past the parks and wobbled through some cobbly streets to the town. Saw the great Hennesey building (probably the most stunning “brewing factory” ever) and trundled along the river path. Found ourselves what ever Saffa wants, some braai meat, and retired to the comfort of a camp fire.


In the background I heard some music – decided to stop ours playing from the laptop. Said to Nick that it must be live. This nuskierige apie (trans. inquisitive monkey) hopped on the bike to check. There they were – a group of Jazz dudes – mouth organs and all having a bit of a jam session. All the campers came round. Various people joined in. After we filled our braai bellies to the max we joined the masses for a few sessions.

Who would have thought Cognac to be so huge in Jazz! Super awesome. Will do it again anytime.

Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

26 July
Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

Having not done any major towns or cities recently we looked forward to seeing Bordeaux. Rightfully so! We drove into town following the parking signs for “tourist cars”. It lead to a leafy parking spot right on the river and we decided to explore the city from there on our bike.


The city is so well structured and organised, this being the result of the last major pouring moning into the infrastructure so much so that he was accused of squandering money. Nevertheless it is great, cycle lanes sepertaing you from the trams and cars. It was great. The inner city in mostly pedestrianised which made for some wonderful walking about. It is a University town with a very large international presence that was felt when browzing the busy markets.

After a few hours we were tired and we had one to many fench sweetcakes filled with Nutella that we decided to head back to Rub y. We hitched the bicycles back on and decided to head on out back to the beach.

We found a small camsite in Lege Cap Ferrat. It was a very nice two star site fr only 20 Euros. Cheap compared to some. It was not long before a English gentalman came to talk to us making comments about Ruby. His name was Peter Smith and his wife was Jilly. They were retired schoolteachers and had been coming to the site for the past 9 years. He had owned several LDV vans (like Ruby) and we had lots to talk about. He gave us some good maintenance tips. Lovely people.

After we were talked out and hungry we went our separate ways to make dinner. Amy tried to test out her newly acquired French skills with the toddler neighbour and his Mom. Pointing and laughing worked with the toddler..... the Mom thought we were strange.

Mimizan – Bordeaux

25 July
Mimizan – Bordeaux

Arrived in Bordeaux to probably the only campsite in the area. Bordeaux de Lac (trans. lac – Lake) sounded promising with hopeful views of the lake and 8km outside the centre. No luck there unfortunately – there is no lake. There are a few man made “natural” pools.

As we do (somehow) we landed our site in front of a couple of homeboys with a mini cd player pumping out the tunes. Some French pop and some really shameful late 80's & 90's style music. There was another crew of homies chilling outside the laundry a few metres away. After a while the group made friends with each other. Nick, feeling left out, promptly placed his cap loosely sideways and tipped up, not tight, to try and fit in.

Instead we made friends with a couple from Aus and there 3 little ones. We have heard a few crazy stories of misfortunes from people along the way. Fortunately we have not had any. Blessed.

With hope of the site shop having a few bits – we were horribly disappointed leaving us with very little to create supper with. Eating becomes really important when you have nothing else to do. So we made a pasta & sauce and went to bed.

Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

24 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

Needless to say we did not feel like another 4 hour wait for a bit of spark for the Ruby. We slept in and were ready to leave at noon. When I was paying I chatted to another Frenchman who waited with us the previous day who was in the front of the electric line. I noticed he was well into the book he started the previous day and he told me he had been waiting since 6:00 and he was strong and will prevail. I smiled, paid and left. Next time I will book in advance.

We did not drive to far and we ended up in Mimizan just up the coast. Stumbled upon a lake with a Flower trail up on its banks. We decided to hope out the van and go for a walk. At the end of the trail we noticed a caravan park and decided to give it a try. We checking in the the Aire de Camping Car which was part of the site but slightly at the back and slightly cheaper. It had electricity and access to all the facilities. We had noticed these stands as part of the other sites we had seen and assumed it was part of the campsite. Tip: Ask if you can park there at the reception. It is way cheaper!



We unpacked and grabbed the picnic mat and headed off to the lake and lay down to read our books for a while.

Got the bikes off and went for a ride trough town and along the lake. I was set on swimming somewhere and went for a dip.

All hell broke loose at about 10pm, turns out that it was Karaoke night and we soon discovered the site was full of adolescent boys whose voices were breaking. Enough pillows could not hide the bellowing that lasted well into the early morning........ I still shudder at the thought of it. TIP: If your are in a campsite on the weekend, especially Saturday, Get wasted, or join in.

23 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

Woke up at sparrow fart, 7.30am (I know life is tough!)After a small doze we managed to get to Reception at 8.30am. Surely it couldn't be that bad – the reception board said they only open at 8.30am. On arrival we were already faced with at least 4 contenders looking for an electric spot. We intended to be at this site for 3 nights at least. With happy hearts we sat and read our books in the queue on the bench like good children. Chapter after chapter, hour after hour. Fortunately we were in good spirits and settled down to our cool 4 hour wait until 12h00 only to be told that there are no sites available and we could come back tomorrow. We were animal hungry so we cooked up a feast then went to the beach for the rest of the day. Which was should we say very entertaining but contained far for male nudity than a open shower at a Virgin Active Gym. Note: This area is sited for “France for Nudism” and it is well supported or “not well supported” ...excuse the pun.

The cunning photo reveals more than it seems....what a shame it is uploaded in low res!

Hossegar, France – Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

22 July
Hossegar, France – Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

Another slow coastal drive to a site called Cap de Homy. We read about this site in the Cool Camping book and it sounded great. It's a municipal site and as we have learned these are often neat and tidy.

When we checked in at around 3pm they said they had no sites available with electricity. The receptionist suggested that we come back the next morning to request a site. We asked what time should be a good time to arrive and she answered 8am.

After lazying the afternoon away – we were keen to get the prawns on the braai. That was not to happen as there is no fires with charcoal permitted. Only gas TIP: This happens at many a site. Too happy just to enjoy prawns we stuck them in the pan wit garlic and butter. Tasty!

Ax les Bains – Hossegar, France

21 July
Ax les Bains – Hossegar, France

We lowly trundled through to the coast again. Our friend, Graeme, had suggested Hossegar area. He's a keen surfer and the area is a superb match to this lifestyle. Beaches are joined village by village. Really an ideal summer holiday buzz. Loads of sandy beaches, surfers,mariners, lunch spots and fresh air.

Something I think everyone loves about France is the Boulangeries (trans. bakers). With the sweet tooth we have been born with, it was here we discovered the Beignet. An angelic evil to the taste buds and your figure. A doughnut square (no hole) filled with a large amount of Nutella with sprinkles of icing sugar on the top. You cannot hide the deliciousness of these more-ish delights, no matter how neat a eater you are, the tell-tale dribbles of chocolate will appear around your mouth.

An aire which is more like a campsite is offered at 7 euro per 24 hours is found under the canopy of pine trees. This is where we based camp for a night. Some people had clearly been there for much longer - though they were harmless beachbums living for the surf.

There is a toilet – but portaloo is a better option. It really fills up a lot with campers of all sorts – young and old. A really secure site as it seems the Beach Cop and a few cronies come to check if everyone is there with a paid ticket.

Aix les Bains

20 July
Aix les Bains

So Nick and I decided it a really good idea to see what was at the dead end of the road our little campsite was on. It was supposed to be the last little remote village. We trambled through on a steep hill – with Nick in his usual positive coaching spirit. It must have been about 5 minutes in when my concentration almost turned to severe groaning and 8 minutes for the sound of Nickys' enthusiastic chants to subside. Half way there and we both concluded we were quite possibly encounter death if we proceeded any further. Yes, perhaps it was the wine from the night before, I don't dispute that, but if you saw the hill you would understand.

With a pant of a dry throat the bikes were turned and a clear free wheel all the way down again. We carried on past a few little villages. Original French buildings both modernly dilapidated and lived in. Plenty of photo taking in the hope that I get to painting at sometime.

Feeling quite proud of my recent regular cycling habits – Nick agreed we should head back. Something funny about cycling is – sometimes you just can't remember free wheeling downhill – and this dawns on you when you have to peddle back up it. Nothing like a free ride, they say – certainly so! Managing to have gained momentum I wondered where my very goodlooking husband was. Then I looked back and saw at least 50 metres behind me Nick was peddling with passion. He was not alone. About 5 metres behind him a dog was barking hot on his tail! It was hysterical! In fits of laughter all momentum was lost from my side. Nick was doing well but the dog was quite possibly doing better. Nick was shouting “He's gonna eat me” x 1000. The dog had pulled out of a drive with his master driving a tractor. The tractor was miles back by this stage and fortunately the dog realised his owner had turned off to one of the fields, returning defeated by the great Nick. It was possibly the highlight of my day.

Like 2 nerds we thought this was a good enough reason to return to the indulgence of our books. Not much else is needed to be said... too much relaxing going on.

TIP: in this little town there is a Aire for Camping Cars. It is free of charge and is based in a quite little place close to walks for waterfalls. We were more than happy to stay at the campsite though as it was only 15 Euros per night including electricity.

Aix les Bains

19 July
Aix les Bains


After a really long night we decided we were not going to follow on to the next Tour De France point. We were in need of peace and quiet. Fortunately our prayers were answered! A really scenic drive took us further into the mountains. Rushing water followed everywhere we went. Filling our water bottles with fresh spring water added to the feeling of the great outdoors. It was also the best toothe brush we had ever had.


The campsite too had a bubbling river edging by. It was at the foot of a mountain in a tiny village. One butcher, one baker, one campsite. The butcher appeared closed – but he was there. A big strong serious French man who looked like if you happened to get him angry – he could do some damage with a knife. He ambled out silently, assisted us with the ordering of the boerie and the pork chops (which were really the only things on offer – other than pate), took our money and in his odd quiet way left from the backdoor (70cm away from the frontdoor), whilst we left from the front and walked across the slim single track road to his cottage.

Having come into town our bikes we ventured back to read under the shade of the tall trees. To be honest – I had a nap. Glorious!

From slumber to the sound of crackling coals (the worst coals in history). Braaiing, wine and chatting.

Catalonia, Spain – Ax les Thermes

18 July
Catalonia, Spain – Ax les Thermes

We woke up this morning and headed straight for the bar at the site to make use of the wifi.


After much pain and suffering we eventually got the correct password and could connect. We called the family and after talking to Amy's Dad who happened to be watching the Tour de France on the TV. We decided that we are just to close to not go. We packed up in a hurry and headed for the Ax les Thermes, a small that that the Tour would be coming through. We only managed to get near the town before we were confronted by police blockades. So we grabbed the bikes off the back of Ruby and proceeded to free wheel the remaining 5 miles down the mountain with the absolute fear of knowing one of us or both of us will have to ride back up to the car at the end of the day. Nevertheless it was all part of partaking in the Tour de France! Riding up the gruelling hills of the Pyrenees.

We arrived in town just in time to catch the floats coming through. ( for those who dont know the Tour is not merely bicycles. There are hundreds of cars,vans, motorbikes and more that come past in front of the riders displaying goods and advertising, tossing gifts and freebies at the fans waiting for the riders to come past.)

After about 1,5 hours of waiting the sky became alive with helicopters which was a sure sign that the riders were close. Then all of a sudden you can hear the fans erupting like a continuous Mexican Wave as the riders enter the town. First the leaders speed in then followed by the leading Peleton and then the rest. Some bloodied and bruised, some focused and some smiling and waving at the fans. All in all it was a wonderful experience.


After about another hour we decided we should go back to the van as it was getting close to 19h00, which was the time the blockade was meant to open. We donned our helmets and got on the bikes then started climbing out of what was a beautiful town soon became hell. Nevertheless we managed and got back to Ruby and cooled down and played a game of cards or two waiting for the traffic to ease. Once we thought it was a clear to go we started up and headed down the hill. How I wish we had just turned around and headed back the way we had originally come. We ended up taking 5 hours to get back to the town. As it was a mountain pass there was no place for us to pull off and if there was the previous 5 million people had beaten us to the decision.

Our view for the rest of the day

Finally we made it to a garage with a large parking lot with a whole bunch of campers parked and were settling for bed. I had one look at the bell tower convieniently right next to the bay we had stopped in and changed my mind about staying here for the night as it had just rung for twelve o'clock and I could not imagine a whole night of progressive ringing. We drove off only to be confronted by the traffic so we turned back to the parking lot as we were both smashed and thought there was no chance that the church bell could keep us awake.

We parked yet again in the same spot and made the bed then climbed in....... nope you guessed it. If Spain had a gang that loved to support cycling, they decided to pull in to the parking lot for a few beers, initiation ceremony and, well if you got to go, you might as we go next to Ruby. Luckily our Van neighbour was more nervous than us and called the cops who arrived 5 seconds after they left. Funny that? Anyway the cops fumbled through the garbage that all the “Homies” left and sped off after them. This was not good enough for the neighbour who packed up his scooter into his Van and followed in pursuit.

Finally we fell asleep at about 2:30, 3:00, 4:00, 5:00, 6:00, 7:00........

Roussillon, France – Catalonia, Spain

17 July
Roussillon, France – Catalonia, Spain

Nick and woke up early and made use of the cool (for once) morning air. We took a drive through the Pyrenees. A true reflection of how the French have maintained there country's beauty. In a setting like this – one could forget about the strains of life, move into a narrow street with the building shadowing the road – to open the back room shutters and see the mountains. The fresh air, the view... and all is forgotten.

The scenery was being soaked in so much that it was only when we arrived at the Carrefour (Tesco or Spar equivalent) that we noticed all the pricing was in Spanish. We thought nothing of it as we were heading toward Andorra. Arriving at the camp site – the owner started out with “Ola”! Again, Spanish. Whilst Nick was fetching the passport – I asked shyly - “Sorry to ask a silly question, but, where are we? The lady looked confused. I asked again slowly. She smiled and said Catalonia. Some how we had landed up in Spain. You have got to love the Schengen Agreement.

Our site is alongside a little stream under plenty of trees. We are currently lazying about, reading, blogging, sketching and reading SA mags (thanks Mom). Later we plan to hit the net for a short while to determine the rest of our trip. Then, we'll do what comes naturally again, laze about. With less than a month to go to return to normal life – work, socialising, etc. (I can't think of anymore partially because I forgotten what normal life is) – you will probably find that our speech is so slow that it is impaired, our stress factor will be slow you could not “boo” a scare and that we might be totally unacceptable in society.

For now though – a hot shower. The first in days...

Sainte Maries De La Mer

16 July
Sainte Maries De La Mer

Travelling through a very different landscape we learned that the incredible wetlands are where the flamingoes visit in March (I think it was March). A really flat landscape with various earthy shades of browns and greens with the glimmer of low blue waters. An interesting place for an artist I would guess.

Not only this – there are a few very old fashioned and typically French fishing huts that have obviously been there for many a year. The town of Sainte Maries De La Mer summed up the drive with a old seaside fishing village style. Veggie stores, tiny little side streets and the natural colours of the aged buildings in a functioning modern town. The beach is even better. This is where we stayed for the most of the day. Just to let you know we weren't too lazy we also went for a cycle.

TIP: there is also a free camp right on the beach. It is called the Sainte Maries de La Mer Plages Est. Free camps aren't that free anymore it seems – but at 9.50 Euro's per day right alongside the beach – who can sneeze? One fall back is that it was very full and your neighbour will be very close.

Later in the early evening we drove further and stayed in an aire on the toll road. This was the first time we had done it. TIP: In France there are usually really nice aire's on the toll roads. This gets you to you next destination quicker and saves you on your campsite. They normally have toilets and fresh water. If you stop at one with a petrol station – then you potentially have use of a chemical toilet, restaurant and local produce shop. There is often a quite section for campers and caravans in the tree filled parking lot sheltered from any roadside noise. They also provide tables and chairs with an area kids or pets can cruise around. We even had a couple that used a pop up tent on the ground to kip over with their two kids. So as long as there are others using the site – it is usually quite safe.



My very beautiful and clever Nick found mussels on his snorkel at Sainte Maries de La Mer. So for dinner we enjoyed a fresh mussel pot that the goodlooking chef cooked up. He also found treasure whilst he was down there – a brand new pair of Ray Bans – for girls. Score!

Port St Louis Du Rhone

15 July
Port St Louis Du Rhone

Nick wanted to go to the Carmargue. This is an area of flat wetlands and is a national park. Along the way we bought a free camp/campsite book for France. It had a little tour of the area but we decided to make two stops out of the suggested. The first was Port St Louis is a harbour and fishing town at the very start of the Camargue. Very pretty and very French. I love the French.

We found our free camp for the night through our book which mentioned a 6 Euro fee. On arrival it said on the noticeboard in French 6 Euro 24 hours. Then a whole page of font size 10 writing – again, all in French. There was no pay box. There was no man. Just open ground. A visit to to the Tourism Info Bureau gave us a bit of information. The lovely lady attempted best as possible in English to explain. Pointing out three places on a map. One of which I understood was where to pay. On arrival it was a restaurant. Nick went in regardless. We have learnt before these things are possible – like with our traffic fine.

Nick politely told the Frenchman equipped with apron that he would like to pay. The man said “Yez sure” and held his hand out waiting for payment. Not having a clue what Nick wanted to pay for – he slapped Nick on the back laughing and gave him a hug. When Nick told him what the payment was for the waiter burst into laughter and said he was definitely at the wrong place. Giving up for answers, we went back to site and set up for the evening. Loads of campers came through, read the sign and drove off. No-one had a clue what was going on. It turned out that at 11am the next day a man would come collect the 6 Euro from you. Most people left before 11am and hence these poor souls are making no money. Never mind the number of vanners who turned away due to lack of instruction.

Anyway, it was nothing fancy. Literally a large space on the harbour quay. If you're into fishing it would be a great location as you can stay 48 hours for 12 Euro's. At the end of our trip I will compile all the details of addresses etc.

14 July
Nice to Cannes

Would you believe we slept until 10am? Definitely the first time this holiday. Feeling rather sticky we both agreed we needed a shower. We arrived at the first campsite in Cannes where they informed us that the site charge for a little van and 2 people was 49 Euro's. The most exorbitant charge so far. It is Cannes though. I've always wanted to visit Cannes but after the day yesterday, it is to be left for another time.

So we headed out to the next closest site (on the tom tom ACSI Campings List, that is). Simple site. To far to hop on your bike to town (I would think). One up though, it had a pool. Back in France means no swimming caps! The rest of the day was spent reading and repacking Ruby for her and our comfort. We devoured a scrumptious dinner. Then in return the mozzies devoured my scrumptious legs.

France - Menton, Monaco and Nice

13 July
France - Menton, Monaco and Nice

It was with great excitement to see this area and to be back in France. We stopped in Menton originally thinking it was a suburb in Monaco. It's actually a little town outside. The tom tom helped us to get to a camping car parking site. On the Quay. We figured this would be an awesome stop to stay overnight. Right next to the beach. Being back in France they have loads of free public showers lining the promenade. Parking turned out to be free. The only thing is that we couldn't figure out if you could stay overnight. Being overly cautious we read the sign 50 times over in our best French... which is a bit like our best Chinese. Then, decided to forget about it and cycle the boardwalk.

We ended up in another little town called Roquebrune. Don't get too overwhelmed by my cycling capabilities yet. It was like riding from Kings Beach to the lollipop. For non PE peeps – that is about 4.5km and then returned to retire on the sand with the occasional swim.

Town was right there and really beautiful. Again, we roamed the market in search of our fresh produce and returned back to Ruby. There were these annoying little temporary signs saying no stopping or your car would be towed on non other but 14 July. That meant the next day. Then there was about a five page legal essay (all in French) supporting this. It planted doubt in my mind that our stay over would be appropriate.

We headed for Motorhome camping garages. These all turned out to be underground parking lots – where it is not allowed to sleep overnight. Purely just a parking. After a few of these site visits – we headed toward Nice to the closest campsite. It happened to be on the opposite side of Nice. We came within 5 km's of the site and were stuck in the biggest traffic jam ever (well, almost ever). The 13th of July is the day before the Bastille Day/National Day in France. A public holiday. Why did it cause such insane craziness of cars the day before? We did not know. Ruby was getting hot and flustered. So we turned off, drove the opposite direction and managed to find a parking in a lot outside the Superstore which was only opened specifically for this event as it was after hours.

It is important that I tell you we were in the car for 4 hours looking for a new site. Only to be stuck in traffic a few kilometres away. I was getting the grumps. We climbed out the car and followed the rest of the crowd. They took us to the beach front. It was filled with people lining the pebbled beaches, walking the promenade and eating in the many enticing restaurants (I was starved by this point). There was even a band playing. The folks were line dancing to French translated American songs. The neighbouring blocks of flats had a resident and partner slip out for their tango. It was oddly rewarding after such a long trek.

A decision was made that there was no way that we were moving anywhere until after the traffic subsided. It was by this time 10pm-ish. A stop back at Ruby for a bottle of wine, cheeses and any other bits we had were gathered. We joined the masses of families on the pebbles enjoying their tailor made picnics. People swam in the moonlight flittering on the sea. Then out of the blue a loudspeaker poured out opera music and the fireworks began. Now, I know earlier we had seen the fireworks display in Florence and loved every never ending minute. This, however, was incomparable. Opera is such a passionate type of music. The mixture of music with the fireworks exploding on the beats and accentuating on the highs. I do not know much about music. If I did – I could possible explain this better. All I can say though was that it brought tears to our eyes. It was a very special moment.

Nick and I decided to join in a swim under the French night sky. Cooled ourselves. Washed under the fresh water public shower as well as possible – we were not going to shower this night. The crowds had dispersed by midnight and we climbed into Ruby almost certain all the campsites were closed. We headed off to the campsite the tomtom had originally noted. It was closed – so were the four others in the same street thereafter. Ruby parked on the side of the road outside the campsite and we all fell fast asleep.

Genoa East

12 July
Genoa East

After a long drive (about 5 odd hours) we arrived in the East of Genoa. We saw a signboard saying “Last Campsite before Genoa”. Genoa happens to be about 25km's away from the site. As it was heading to afternoon and our bums were tired from sitting we moved up the steep hill. Second in line (after a tent booking) we secured ourselves a little site.

The beach was calling us from below. On the stroll down reception had 3 campers waiting in line for their spot. Two were turned away as there was no space. Ruby was also asked to move to shift upfor another van. Leaving us with a London size patio. The reason why I am telling you this is – either they had a good marketing ploy by use of their sign or genuinely there is no other site available. Nevertheless, it is a very sub-standard site. As we approached the stairs a cute little Italian lady started to talk to us in quite an insistent fashion. Totally confused – we smiled and tried to make more sense. She then made us follow her (jabbering away in Italian) to, what we figured out, was a shuttle. To the beach. This was most welcomed as the stairs had a huge painted on sign 500m. Now, I can walk 500m but you should have seen how steep they were. When we arrived at the site a family came up chugging, leaving Dad behind carrying all the beach goodies and lilo's.

It must be said the round trip shuttle was free. One could only understand why – as they might have lost all their clients to begin with – having had no pool. It was said there are 2 beaches. One pebbled, one further along sand. Nick and I have been liking the pebbled beaches because they leave you sand free. It was small and lovely. You could see school is out for holidays with the teenagers snogging and the single few playing Uno alongside. The water was warm but refreshing.

At the top of the beach cliff we wandered and found quaint fruit and veg stores where we bought our ingredients for dinner. Then made our way home in a very packed shuttle to the site on the hill.

Pisa

11 July
Pisa

Both of us decided that we will head back north. Originally we were going to try visit the tip of the boot. Ruby is just a little slow and time is running out. Things also work better up north. The drivers as we have said are another story too. Nick and I even made a few names for these avid Team Ferrari amateurs. Here are a few of the names:

Luigi Likealotto Cutthecorners
Guiseppi Overtakeon Solidline-o's
Luca Liketo Comeinmy Lane-o
Marco Maybestopping Here-o
and many more...

Anyway, if you don't think it's funny, it's a private joke. We have a lot of time on our hands. It's not quite eye spy – but it keeps us entertained.
So we started the long trek up along the west coast and made a stop at Pisa.

It is tiny! The Tower that is. Much smaller than I would have ever expected. You can see that this architecturally wrong piece is the definite pride of the city. Another thing is it had a Basilica (I think) and some other building alongside. Set in the same style as the tower and just a beautiful. This too wasn't expected. I thought it stood alone.

There are lush green lawns surrounding all these. Nick and I originally planned a mini picnic on the grass – wine, cold meats, cheese and crackers. We brought everything along except the crackers. Plus the grass was being watered ao we couldn't sit. To be honest, it was severely hot and probably better under the shade cloth back at camp. So we hopped back on our bicycles and left.

On arrival at the campsite earlier we had chatted to our Kiwi site neighbours, Ann and Kevin Anton. When we returned we invited them to watch the FIFA final with us at the onsite pub. Well, we all chatted up a storm and had a great giggle. In fact, by the end of the evening the most of us were a little merry (or maybe that was just me?).

TIP: not sure if I have mentioned this elsewhere on the blog... In Italy it is a standard to swim with a swimming cap. Some pools allow you to swim if you do not wet you hair (regardless of how little you may have) and other strictly do not. If you travel Italy in the summer – you need to swim. It is a human right in that heat. Take your cap.

Casa Bianca

10 July
Casa Bianca

After a swim in the ocean and a wholesome breakfast we went in search of another coastal destination. Our wallet needed to be replenished – so an hour into the drive we looked for a bancomat (trans. ATM) and we needed diesel. As we were on the toll road we stopped at many a petrol station. Nothing. The funny thing in Italy is – that most people want you to pay in cash. Then, when paying by cash, they are very particular in change and hate to part with any of their float. To top it all off there seems to be no banks around. So we punched into our tomtom for a bank. With just enough money to get off the toll road, the tomtom proceeded to take us through farm and mountain and finally at the very peak to a tiny (and I mean tiny) little town. It was called Tontorino. As picturesque that it was – it had one ATM. Only one. To top this all off – it was offline for international transactions.

Another strange thing is, is between the hours of 1.30 to 3.30 most places close. For lunch, a sleep and I only hope a shower (as it is scorching everywhere). Even the ATM's take a break. On arrival at the next bancomat (which was also hugely off the chart – thanks, tomtom) the time was 2.58. Nick placed our plastic into the teller. Nothing. No lights – nothing. He walked away. Then decided, it has got to work! Two hours of searching of a bank is not fun. He turned back. As Nick stood there, the lights started to work and in a shudder of technology the machine was working. It was 3pm on the dot.

TIP: Always make sure you have extra cash on you – tucked away.

Ruby ambled on along the coast (no more tollroads). As the day was almost over we looked for a site but preferred parcheggio (trans. parking lot/potential free camp). With no luck we turned into a site.

It turned out to be the best parcheggio ever. Not a campsite. Yet it had toilet and shower facilities. Not great but manageable. Direct access to the beach. With rentable umbrellas and deckchairs. Grassed sites, a little tight but okay for one night. And – even evening entertainment. For 15 Euro's!! per site, regardless the number of people in your van. Very friendly onsite staff too.

We went straight to the beach and swam. The cool sea breeze was welcomed whilst we cooked dinner and enjoyed a glass of white wine.

????? Lanciano

9 July
Here we sit – not knowing where we are. (Minutes later: Nick has done some research and we are in Lanciano)

It's pretty good though. We stopped for lunch at this really fantastic beach. Went for a swim after. Then – just didn't get up. Lay in the sun reading. After I had fallen asleep – Nicks realised we had lost track of time. Finally we got up and walked to the van. Ruby received her first international parking ticket for 38 Euro's. We were like, there are so no signs here. OOPS!

15 meters down the road there was a campsite. We thought, okay, this is it. Out of interest we asked reception about the fine and whether there are any signs. The man said “no, you buy the ticket from here” (for 2 Euro a day). Nick looked in disgust. How were we supposed to know? There are no signs.

Anyway, the site is awesome. Literally on the sea. We are slowly getting used to the Pool Area's verbal diarrhoea-ed DJ's that are placed at every campsite pool. Whether it is “VIA VIA VIA” (trans. GO GO GO) for the kids egg and spoon race or the noisy introduction to the water aerobics session. It keeps you in hysterics as you still don't have a clue what's going on. The other thing is – this site (like some others) request swimmers to wear swimming caps. It reminds me of days at junior school swimming class. Though this time, it's adults and children alike. Nick and I were the rebels and climbed in anyway. We genuinely saw no signs and acted like dumb tourists. Nothing was said. Cooled off we retired to our Ruby Red where I have been blogging ever since. Nick has been reading his book and cooked me dinner. We had so much to catch up on on the blog and we were so far behind! So please know – it is not all play – there is a little work here and there. Just no stress.

Gargona National Park – Vieste

8 July
Gargona National Park – Vieste



A drive from west to east. In find of a different coastline. A much cooler one. One with wind! Something we hadn't had in awhile. I hate wind. This was welcomed. Stunning campsite. Right across the road from the beach with large pool. We didn't go for a swim. Possibly the first day in a long while where the opportunity was there and we didn't take it. I had a nap in the cool air. Nick read his book with the view of the beach in front of him.

Later, our neighbours (Ladia and Helen from Czech) popped by and we swopped experiences and excursions. It was great to share stories and thoughts.

Amalfi Coast

7 July
Amalfi Coast

On booking out – we thanked Xenia and Irene profusely – not only for their recommendation of tour operator but for their kindness.

Xenia had mentioned not to travel the Amalfi Coast in a car, certainly not a van. Not sure why we ended up doing it – but we did. The tom tom said there was a campsite – but it turned out to be a hotel. The concierge type guy said “no campsites in this area at all”. Initially I thought – he might want to get us into his hotel (no chance). We soon realised there was really no site. There is also no way I was to attempt the hills and mountains by bicycle. There was traffic in narrow streets like none other. Nick said “it takes a huge amount of concentration, you have to use your brown eye too”. Death defying corners. Italian drivers of bus, truck, car and scooter. The goodlooking Nick learnt quickly – when in doubt – hoot! That's what they do. You never sure if you're in trouble or if they just want to overtake you! So we motored (as promptly as Ruby can go) past Positano (which is beautiful) to Amalfi.


Amalfi welcomed us with a car park. Something not too regularly seen in these areas. At 5 Euro's for 3 hours of parking – we went and trambled through the streets and along the boulevard. We have both decided that we will come back one day. Arrive in Naples (God forbid) by plane and rent a scooter. Stay at hotels and eat at restaurants. Otherwise do a cruise. These are the ways to do this coastline. Something I do not want to miss.


Mix of driving and heat tired us. We punched in for the closest campsite on the GPS. It was only a few miles away from the lovely Villaggio Campeggio Blue Green. It was a fatal mistake at the idea that if the new site, iPini, had a pool this would be the stop. It did. A walk straight to the pool in desperation. There were kids. In swimming caps. A coach. Swimming lanes. An older chap doing butterfly. Yes, swimming training. Then to make it worse a little boy on a kicker board climbed out in need of a wee. The coach directed him towards the outdoor shower. We have learned that the outdoor shower with foot basin is there for pre wash before and after swims. This is part of the swimming rules. Wash feet and body before entering public pool. The little boy pulled down his speedo and from him protruded a yellow trickle. In the basin. He then, promptly jumped back in the pool. Kick. Kick. Kick. To top it off, his dad was on the side actually looking proud!?

We went to bed without a swim. TIP: All round – miss this site.

Piano Di Sorrento

6 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Xenia had mentioned that we could get some info on things that we could do in the area. She is incredibly passionate about her region and country. The typical warmth you are told of when people return from trips to Italy. Strangely, we had not discovered these sort yet and so when we met Xenia it was very touching.

My Granny had gone to the Isle of Capri years ago. I had figured that we were pretty close to the Island. Nick and I have both written in our dream books (a book with things we want, want to see and do, etc – and tick off once done) to see the Blue Grotto and potentially swim in it. We had originally heard about the Blue Grotto from very special friends of ours, Dave and Zelda Moore. They had visited it – but in Santorini.

A visit to reception and a chat with Xenia's very helpful daughter, Irene, allowed us to get a great deal on an island tour. Now, you'll have to forgive me. I am usually the keeper of all brochures and flyers. This flyer, however, I have misplaced. So I can't tell you the name. For 34 Euro's per person with a full trip and general guide from Masse Lubrense, with transfers from the meeting point and return and 5 hours to wander Capri on your own it was really worthwhile. Not only this, but our lovely ladies from reception insisted that Xenia will drive us to the meeting point (free of charge).

We left the site at 7.45 with Xenia. She explained that the site was her family's since 1870. Owned by her Grandmothers Grandfather. Everyone there is her family. She explained how she loves her land and her guests. Every word that leaves this lady's mouth is heaven sent. Xenia is one of the worlds little blessings.

The shuttle arrived and we all crammed in.

Arriving at Masse Lubrense we were escorted onto a cruiser. We headed off into the ocean. Nick and I walked Capri. Fortunately, decided to take the, TIP: funicular, to the top and strolled the town.

As both of us are bad shoppers (Nick is better than I) we found a path to the beach on the opposite side of the island. Bearing in mind that we walked enough stairs and mountains this holiday and this walk was only down (not up) it was a gruesome walk. Very pretty nonetheless. Very steep. Plenty stairs. And then there was the reward at the bottom – the ocean.

We attempted to find a route to the beach. In Italy, everywhere matching umbrellas and sun loungers line the beaches. We soon walked, by accident, into one and were informed a swift 18 Euro's per person to be paid for the day. The gentleman at the counter saw our backs shortly. There are small patches of public beaches though. Everything a person needs. Sea, pebbles and sun. Luke warm water. Arrh. What a life!


All Nick could think of was snorkel. He bought one at the local and off he went. Again, the trash and litter problem in Italy is severe. Nick came back saying he saw a good few fish but plenty other paraphernalia. Fishing rods, trash, plates and he even found me a brand new hairband. After a few hours relaxing in the sun, taking a dip, then sunning ourselves, then some floating about we decided to head back to the centre. If the walk down was strenuous – you can only image how up went.

The island is a mountain basically, so wherever you stand you get a great panorama. The town is filled with expensive boutiques, lavished ladies in gorgeous clothing, then plenty a tourist, little restaurants and gelateria's (yes, answers your question, another one) and is very character filled.

Our crew was back at 15h45 (on the nod) – we found a place on the front of the boat. The water had become a little more choppy than the morning. It didn't bother us as we were hoping we could get to swim in the Grotto Azzura.



When we arrived there were many other tour operators waiting in turn for their passengers to get their row boat. Row boats only hold 4 passengers and the rower. It costs 11 Euro per person to go into the Grotto. This is separate to your tour cost. We watched in awe at how these boatmen ask the passengers to duck (lay totally flat) and pull the boat and themselves through the tiniest gap in the wall. Nick and I were the second group to go from our cruise. The boatman preceded to the opening of the cave about 3 foot high and grabbed hold of a chain that is connected to the inside of the cave. This is because the opening of the cave is too small to row through. With one yank and lying down at the same time, we were in the cave.

Nick compared it to being born again. You find yourself in this large opening with this shining blue light. Something you have never seen before. The boatmen started to sing in age old tradition. His voice bouncing from wall to wall. Other boatmen joined in. Nick found a silent moment and asked if we could swim. The man answered “something extra for me?” - basically asking for a tip. Without hesitation Nick jumped in and I followed. Then, the male passenger saw what we had done and joined us. Leaving only his fiance and the boatman behind.

Everytime you touched the water – it would illuminate in electric blues. The feeling of being immersed in it was life changing. Something dreams were made of. It is at this time that I must tell you that I have a really weird fear of swimming in the sea and rivers – especially in the ocean. Never mind the fact that there was no sand underneath me. Just a great depth. The water demon thoughts did not come over me. It was a spiritual and fulfilling experience. TIP: If you are close to the Isle of Capri – join this excursion. It is a must do in life. So far, the highlight of our holiday.

As new boats entered – it seemed that the boatman was told off by his colleague and we had to hop back into the boat. Swimming is apparently not allowed. When returning to the boat Nick grabbed his wallet. The boatman was almost on his way – so Nick stretched out and handed him a tip that equalled the Grotto ticket costs. No money would have ever been enough for the experience.

Image from google
The trip continued. On a high we visited the green grotto, the white grotto, passed the beach we swam in and kissed under the Tunnel of Love. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Piano Di Sorrento

5 July
Piano Di Sorrento

Nice late start. Slept – though the sun peaked into the van. Hopped on the 12 o'clock beach shuttle and returned at 4pm.


The beach had black sand – strange. Every inch filled with a towel. Otherwise you could join the cloned umbrellas and sunbeds. We found a quite spot. Until a group of 15 year old boys arrived. As 15 year olds do – they caused havoc. All day. It was fun though. Pretty much what you expect from a beach holiday. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. Swim. Sun. You get the picture...

For those that know me, I am as pale as white paper. These days I boast a freckled tan. Not too proud actually. It has happened without knowing. I'm usually dead against too much suntanning. It is very difficult in this weather to deny it. And it must be said – I have thoroughly enjoyed it. Nicks not doing too bad himself. He is pretty much an Italian himself!

After lazing at the campsite it was time for yet another sunset. What more could we ask for?

Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

4 July
Pompeii Ruins and Mount Vesuvius

Early rise and strolled to Pompeii. Very much looking forward to a day of exploring.

TIP: When we went for a quick walk to the site yesterday we were informed by a market man selling his wares that we must by a guide book to Pompeii. He said that there is no information at all available once you're up at the entrance. Having arrived at the entrance there were booths for audio guides, licensed tour guides, a free map and booklet you get with your ticket. Do not be fooled.

We decided on an audio guide at 10 Euros for 2 people. The alternative was to join the group – at 10 Euro's per person with a registered tour guide for a 2 hour walk.

Pompeii was a thriving Roman City. It suffered a huge earthquake and a few years after that, Mt Vesuvius erupted burying the city with volcanic ash.



It was discovered in the 1800's and only excavated years later. People were buried alive. The city was left very much intact. It gave a great overview from the “lupo” (trans. whore)

houses to laundromats, where using urine was part of cleaning the laundry. We walked it in 3 hours and it was plenty. Roman scholars might want to take longer. TIP: Again ladies, no heels or wedgies - you will battle or look insanely stupid.




Mt Vesuvius was about an hours drive away. Up a winding road you find that you enter straight into a parking lot. Here – a man asks you for 5 Euro parking fee. TIP: Park just before the entrance (where there are a handful of other cars or buses) and skip the charge. They also charge you to walk up the mount (at 6.50 Euro's p. person).

The volcano is Europe's only active volcano and is considered the worlds most dangerous as there are some 6000 people living at the foot of the volcano. There are literally houses and restaurants jotted all the way to the top. At the entrance of the very steep walk – men offer you walking sticks – in hope to have a tip in return when you give them back. Unless you are really unfit, have a disability or are aged you do not need one of these. Good shoes are key. Again – TIP: No high heels or wedgies. It must be said that in both Pompeii and Vesuvius women had attempted this. It genuinely is not worth it. If you break your leg or twist your ankle it will take a while for any medical help to reach you.

It is quite amazing to think you are standing on an active volcano.

You almost expect that steam should be smouldering at the top. Although on this day the heat caused haziness – there must be quite a view on cooler days. The crater is entirely closed with vegetation and earth. The volcanic ash allows perfect nutrients for the soil and the entire area surrounding the mount and all of the land below with beautiful greenery. Unfortunately, in this area (anywhere close to Naples) there is terrible litter. Even in the Mt Vesuvius National Park. It is incredibly disappointing to see dumps all along the sides of the roads.

After a lot of exercise we decided to find a beach. We drove towards Positano – punched in for a campsite on the GPS. There were very few available. It was decided that we will use the one that looked on the tip of the coastline. We arrived at Villaggio Campeggio BlueGreen campsite to find the warmest and most lovely Italian lady, Xenia. She said she will do her best to give us a site with a view. It is very difficult not to, especially when the site is on the edge of a cliff with at least 100m drop to the ocean. We settled in for the night – enjoying the surroundings.

As the site did not have a pool (the views make up for it and they have a shuttle for 1 Euro return to the beach), Nick and I filled our little dish bak (trans. bucket) and had a mini splash. Then retired on our picnic blanky with both pairs of feet in the cold water and read our books.

At one stage we had to leap up with glass of wine in hand to sit at the tip of the site with the view of the ocean and the sun setting behind it. Magic.