Wednesday, 4 August 2010

Pontchateau

31 July – 2 August
Pontchateau

The next site we wanted to visit was next to a French chateau – still owned by a family with at least a 30 character surname – really French. First stop though – Noirmoutiers little fish shop with loads of options. So we bought more oysters and mussels... drool. Then took a typically French drive through vineyards and sunflowers to a town called Sainte-Reine de Bretagne.

It was everything we hoped for for our little inland excursion. So much so that we are still here. There is an indoor outdoor pool, tennis courts, lake with free paddle boats, little otters and loads of birdlife, the old chateau and barn buildings modernised into facilities (used for weddings etc). And so much more. We have found a decent sized site on the lake, have had a few cycle rides, reading up a storm (with new books from the library swop at reception), eating loads of fresh croissants and then braai's to compensate. Even used the potjie for a mussel pot on the day of arrival (mouthwatering – can't talk about it right now – might eat the computer out of desperation). We have also invited a German doctor and his wife (George & Sylvie) round for a potjie tomorrow night. We'll let you know how that goes.

The beach is only a few k's away – so that's another excursion for another day. As always loving this life... can't believe we have 10 days left!

Our Neighbor!

Noirmoutier d Ile




28 July – 30 July
Noirmoutier d Ile
Arriving at Passage du Gois – it happened to be perfect timing. The water had subsided from the road which is usually totally submersed in sea water. Every day the tide goes out and hundreds of people travel to the little island. There are also the additional hundreds that leave their cars on the side of the road – or even some on the wet sand itself – to indulge in oysters, mussels and clam collecting.

It is amazing to see the tide go out and so many creatures being raked up by seafood lovers. We were in hope of finding a spot at Vendetta Camping (part of the Indigo camping group). Although the site has 600+ sites it is high season and this was where we wanted to stay. There are other sites, but this is on the beach and highly recommended.

As Nick returned to the car from Reception – I waited in suspense... We managed to get the last site, literally. With electrics for the max of 3 days. We would honestly have stayed for more if possible. Probably the best site this holiday. Not that I can remember them all – there has just been too many. A momentous thing happened - our attached tent went up for the first time. Just as well as it does get very windy in the afternoons. There is a fantastic little town centre an easy walk (or illegal bike ride away) on a jetty passage. Fresh food from the sea to collect or plenty from the fisheries in town. And cheap. We ate seafood like crazy. Oysters for 12 – something like 3 Euros 80 cents. A kilo of mussels just over 4 Euros. Otherwise you could always collect with the rest of the people raking them up at lowtide.


What an experience. What a campsite. Clean. Even had soap and toilet paper in the loo's – a rare pair. We had actually booked here once before – and cancelled as we were too lazy to move from Chateaulin on a previous trip (also awesome, also Britanny). This is a holiday place of note. A little opportunity to swim in the sea, whilst the rest of the day the tide is out. There are also sailing schools along a still coastline. Cycling routes if you look carefully. Shopping! And more.

If I had to type up a report of every day we were there, I am sure we would make you jealous. No need for gloating... but to end it off, every day was a good day.

Cognac

27 July
Cognac

A must do! In fact – we are going to do it again sometime. Such a stunning little town totally enveloping its heritage. Loads of things to do. Little cycle routes, kids play areas, parks – natural and recreational, tastings of ... cognac, cobbled streets and fields of sunflowers and vineyards. A serious chill session.

Everything is perfect. We booked into a campsite called Cognac de Camping. They said we could not book for more than one night and we were gutted. It happened to be there is a huge jazz fest going on in town called Blues Passion, Cognac. The site is just great and is right along the riverside. We took our bikes into town, past the parks and wobbled through some cobbly streets to the town. Saw the great Hennesey building (probably the most stunning “brewing factory” ever) and trundled along the river path. Found ourselves what ever Saffa wants, some braai meat, and retired to the comfort of a camp fire.


In the background I heard some music – decided to stop ours playing from the laptop. Said to Nick that it must be live. This nuskierige apie (trans. inquisitive monkey) hopped on the bike to check. There they were – a group of Jazz dudes – mouth organs and all having a bit of a jam session. All the campers came round. Various people joined in. After we filled our braai bellies to the max we joined the masses for a few sessions.

Who would have thought Cognac to be so huge in Jazz! Super awesome. Will do it again anytime.

Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

26 July
Bordeaux – Lege Cap Ferret

Having not done any major towns or cities recently we looked forward to seeing Bordeaux. Rightfully so! We drove into town following the parking signs for “tourist cars”. It lead to a leafy parking spot right on the river and we decided to explore the city from there on our bike.


The city is so well structured and organised, this being the result of the last major pouring moning into the infrastructure so much so that he was accused of squandering money. Nevertheless it is great, cycle lanes sepertaing you from the trams and cars. It was great. The inner city in mostly pedestrianised which made for some wonderful walking about. It is a University town with a very large international presence that was felt when browzing the busy markets.

After a few hours we were tired and we had one to many fench sweetcakes filled with Nutella that we decided to head back to Rub y. We hitched the bicycles back on and decided to head on out back to the beach.

We found a small camsite in Lege Cap Ferrat. It was a very nice two star site fr only 20 Euros. Cheap compared to some. It was not long before a English gentalman came to talk to us making comments about Ruby. His name was Peter Smith and his wife was Jilly. They were retired schoolteachers and had been coming to the site for the past 9 years. He had owned several LDV vans (like Ruby) and we had lots to talk about. He gave us some good maintenance tips. Lovely people.

After we were talked out and hungry we went our separate ways to make dinner. Amy tried to test out her newly acquired French skills with the toddler neighbour and his Mom. Pointing and laughing worked with the toddler..... the Mom thought we were strange.

Mimizan – Bordeaux

25 July
Mimizan – Bordeaux

Arrived in Bordeaux to probably the only campsite in the area. Bordeaux de Lac (trans. lac – Lake) sounded promising with hopeful views of the lake and 8km outside the centre. No luck there unfortunately – there is no lake. There are a few man made “natural” pools.

As we do (somehow) we landed our site in front of a couple of homeboys with a mini cd player pumping out the tunes. Some French pop and some really shameful late 80's & 90's style music. There was another crew of homies chilling outside the laundry a few metres away. After a while the group made friends with each other. Nick, feeling left out, promptly placed his cap loosely sideways and tipped up, not tight, to try and fit in.

Instead we made friends with a couple from Aus and there 3 little ones. We have heard a few crazy stories of misfortunes from people along the way. Fortunately we have not had any. Blessed.

With hope of the site shop having a few bits – we were horribly disappointed leaving us with very little to create supper with. Eating becomes really important when you have nothing else to do. So we made a pasta & sauce and went to bed.

Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

24 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy) – Mimizan

Needless to say we did not feel like another 4 hour wait for a bit of spark for the Ruby. We slept in and were ready to leave at noon. When I was paying I chatted to another Frenchman who waited with us the previous day who was in the front of the electric line. I noticed he was well into the book he started the previous day and he told me he had been waiting since 6:00 and he was strong and will prevail. I smiled, paid and left. Next time I will book in advance.

We did not drive to far and we ended up in Mimizan just up the coast. Stumbled upon a lake with a Flower trail up on its banks. We decided to hope out the van and go for a walk. At the end of the trail we noticed a caravan park and decided to give it a try. We checking in the the Aire de Camping Car which was part of the site but slightly at the back and slightly cheaper. It had electricity and access to all the facilities. We had noticed these stands as part of the other sites we had seen and assumed it was part of the campsite. Tip: Ask if you can park there at the reception. It is way cheaper!



We unpacked and grabbed the picnic mat and headed off to the lake and lay down to read our books for a while.

Got the bikes off and went for a ride trough town and along the lake. I was set on swimming somewhere and went for a dip.

All hell broke loose at about 10pm, turns out that it was Karaoke night and we soon discovered the site was full of adolescent boys whose voices were breaking. Enough pillows could not hide the bellowing that lasted well into the early morning........ I still shudder at the thought of it. TIP: If your are in a campsite on the weekend, especially Saturday, Get wasted, or join in.
23 July
Lit et Mix (Cap de Homy)

Woke up at sparrow fart, 7.30am (I know life is tough!)After a small doze we managed to get to Reception at 8.30am. Surely it couldn't be that bad – the reception board said they only open at 8.30am. On arrival we were already faced with at least 4 contenders looking for an electric spot. We intended to be at this site for 3 nights at least. With happy hearts we sat and read our books in the queue on the bench like good children. Chapter after chapter, hour after hour. Fortunately we were in good spirits and settled down to our cool 4 hour wait until 12h00 only to be told that there are no sites available and we could come back tomorrow. We were animal hungry so we cooked up a feast then went to the beach for the rest of the day. Which was should we say very entertaining but contained far for male nudity than a open shower at a Virgin Active Gym. Note: This area is sited for “France for Nudism” and it is well supported or “not well supported” ...excuse the pun.

The cunning photo reveals more than it seems....what a shame it is uploaded in low res!